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Mountain Ranges:
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Walks in Fisherfield and An Teallach Hills
Index to Walks in this Section
Beinn Ghobhlach14 February 2008
The adventure started on the journey north-west from Inverness where there was low cloud with the temperature just above freezing point. On road north towards Ullapool I had the occasional glimpse of the sun drenched mountain tops, areas where the trees and vegetation where white after a hard frost, and an accident where a van had left the road presumably due to the icy road conditions. On approaching Braemore Junction I had left the areas of low cloud behind and now had a great view of An Teallach with its patches of snow. At Braemore Junction I took the A832 to Gairloch as far as the junction just north of Corrie Haillie where I left the main road and drove along the narrow single track road towards Badrallach. The drive to say the least was interesting as it climbed below Beinn nam Ban and then down into the crofting community of Badrallach. At the end of the road there was a turning area with limited parking spaces. I set off on the path that headed west along the north shore of Little Loch Broom to the crofting areas of Rireavach and Scoraig, which apparently has a population of around 80. This path is the only access to these hamlets other than by sea. There is no vehicle access. It was a lovely sunny morning for a walk along this sea loch with Sail Mhor rising above the south side of the Loch. After around a kilometre and a half, at a point where I had my first view of the Scoraig peninsula, I left the path and climbed to the west of the rocky 338 point with views back to An Teallach and the Fannaichs. A slight descent took me to the west side of Loch na h-Uidhe before crossing to the foot of the south-west ridge of Beinn Ghobhlach. The weather conditions were fantastic for a mid February day. It was fairly warm with a slight breeze and a few bits of high cloud. I have had colder days in summer so I was enjoying the day with the mountain to myself and views in all directions including over The Minch to the Outer Hebrides. The next section of the ascent was a bit steeper with several rocky areas to be bypassed but I eventually arrived at the summit with its cairn and small shelter. The views were awesome. Beyond Sail Mhor and An Teallach to the south were the Fisherfield Munros and Torridon, and to the west and the Island of Skye. Across Loch Broom was Ben More Coigach, Ardmair Bay, Ben More Assynt, Conival. The mountains further east were shrouded in cloud. Down below me was Ullapool and beyond that the Ben Dearg Group of mountains. I couldn't have asked for better views. I had lunch at the summit taking in these fantastic views and in fact lingered for a while noting the mountains I could see. I didn’t want to descend by the ascent route so I decided to walk round Coire Dearg. This was a wise decision as the views over the steep and rocky north ridge into Loch Broom and out over the Scoraig peninsula made it well worthwhile. On reaching the end of the ridge I descended steeply into Coire Dearg and headed towards the path to Scoraig, latterly through long heather and around some rocks. Once back on the path I headed back to Badrallach, initially up and over a rocky section of the path before reaching the point I left earlier. Here I saw a walker away out in front and I followed him back to the start. On the drive through Badrallach I stopped and gave this walker a lift. He was actually a resident of Scoraig and had left home an hour earlier so I was able to gleam some information about the Scoraig peninsula. It had been a great mountain experience and one to cherish. I think it will have to be included in my top 10 walks. If anyone is looking for a hill to climb with some fantastic mountain and sea views this is the one but wait for a good day. If the weather is bad go elsewhere and come back on a fine sunny day.
Slioch12 September 2006
It was a wet morning as we headed to Incheril, near Kinlochewe, the starting point for the ascent of Slioch. Here there is a public car park used by walkers and tourists. However by the time we started walking down the Kinlochewe River to Loch Maree it had stopped raining and the clouds were breaking up. The path was a bit wet and muddy as it's also used by the local sheep. On reaching Loch Maree we followed the path along its east shore to the bridge over the Abhainn an Fhasaigh, which we crossed, and took the path up Gleann Bianasdail for a short distance. Thereafter we followed a walker's path into Coire na Sleaghaich where I expected to find some deer but there was none. It was the peak stag stalking season but I had already checked my route with the local stalker so I had no concerns about interfering with any stalking. From the Coire we climbed to the bealach north of Sgurr Dubh, passed one of the twin lochans and climbed steeply up a path which covered in loose rocks. We then headed for the trig point, passing several feral goats en-route and then onto the true summit a few metres further north. It was now a lovely day with some wonderful views of Loch Maree and the surrounding mountains. We had lunch at the summit looking at the fantastic scenery. Later we reluctantly left the summit and headed back to the car park at Incheril by the route of ascent. En route we were passed by an English Gent and his dog. My client asked him if he was a Munro Bagger and the man obviously didn't understand the question and replied 'no she's a Labrador' which I thought was rather funny.
Sail Mhor19 July 2006
The forecast was for a hot and sunny day with predicted temperatures around 28C in the North-West Highlands so I planned an early assault on Sail Mhor. However on the arrival at Ardessie near Camusnagaul it was hot and sunny with the temperature already at 24C. I left the main road at Ardessie and followed a path up the east side of the Allt Airdeasaidh passed several waterfalls. Climbing up this path was horrendously hot with not even a slight breeze to cool me down and I lost a lot of sweat. Maybe I needed to loose a few pounds anyway. Once above the waterfalls, and at a convenient spot, I crossed the Allt Airdeasaidh as a mountain blackbird flew off downstream. I then commenced the climb of Sail Mhor and aimed for south of the rocks but it was hard going in the heat. Around 500 metres there was an intermittent light and welcome breeze. It was still tough going in the heat but I eventually reached the small knoll which was followed by the final short ascent to the summit of Sail Mhor. There were two cairns, the first was covered in flies so I continued to the second one and just beyond it I found a lovely spot for a cuppa looking over An Teallach, Fisherfield and Letterewe areas. I also could see the Scoraig peninsula with its small habitations across Loch Broom to the Summer Isles. There was a nice cooling breeze but the effort to climb this Corbett was well worth it for the views. I later descended the south ridge of Sail Mhor to the Ruigh Mheallain bealach where I headed down the side of a stream to the Allt Airdeasaidh. At this point I saw two fellow walkers ascending Sail Mhor. They were the first walkers I had seen on any Corbett in four days, other than my client who had been with me for three of these days. On reaching the Allt Airdeasaidh I followed a path, which was eroded in sections and in poor condition until I arrived at the point where I crossed the stream earlier that morning. I continued down the side of the stream and on arriving back at my vehicle I noted that the temperature was now 28C so I was glad to be out of the mid-day sun. For statistical details see here.
Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona3 July 2006
Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona are the two Munros of An Teallach and can be combined with an ascent of the Pinnacles but my client just wished to ascend these two Munros by the easiest route. Visibility on driving north to Dundonnell was very poor and on reaching the lay-by at the Mountain Rescue Post the cloud base was almost down to sea level. I located the start of the path and followed it uphill. The path deviated from that shown on the map and reached a stream which it crossed before heading into the corrie and towards Sron a'Choire. Visibility was still poor as I navigated our way to the summit of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill. Despite the cloud it was fairly humid and while on the summit we had a very brief glimpse of Sgurr Fiona before the thick mist returned. We descended by the south ridge of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and climbed Sgurr Fiona before returning to Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill. We met a few other walkers on this section of the walk and on a couple of occasions it appeared that it may brighten up but it didn't happen and we were still in the cloud. From the summit of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill I navigated to the path marked on the map and followed it to Meall Garbh where the cloud started to break up and for the first time since we had set out we saw where we were going. The path, which seemed less used than the morning path, was in poor condition with several worn and gouged sections slowing our descent back to the start of the day's walk. For statistical details see here.
Fisherfield5 - 8 June 2006
Day OneIt was mid-afternoon when we set off from Corrie Hallie on the A832 Braemore Junction to Dundonnell road and climbed through Gleann Chaorachain on a rough vehicle track. My client for the next four days was a lady of pension age who is in the latter stages of completing all the Munros. Unfortunately most of the ones she has left to climb are remote and require long walks in and out or backpacking trips similar to this one. The lady had decided to stay at the bothy at Shenavall rather than camp as it meant she didn't have to carry a tent. Unfortunately she had a pack that wasn't comfortable and this meant frequent stops to try and adjust the sack which only seemed to help for a few minutes. The track passed through some pleasant woodland before climbing steeply to its highest point. Here we left the track and followed a rough path below the south side of An Teallach with good views of its corries and pinnacles. We also had our first views of the Fisherfield Munros. The path became a bit more wet and boggy and we were overtaken by a group of walkers who were being guided by another hill walking company. One of their party took pity on my client and also tried to re-adjust her rucksack but to no avail. This group were planning to camp but further south. The path, which is in a fairly poor state later descended fairly steeply to the bothy at Shenavall. Here my client managed to find an upstairs room to herself which she later called the 'penthouse suite'. There were four others staying in the bothy that night, one group which I never saw but I was told they returned from the hills around midnight. I spoke to another chap who was staying in the bothy who had managed the round of six Munros from Corrie Hallie in twelve hours and was intending walking back to Corrie Hallie in the morning over An Teallach. I camped nearby together with a couple from Leeds who had arrived earlier that evening on an experimental backpacking trip. It was a pleasant evening viewing some of the hills that were to be climbed during the next couple of days, well that was until the wind dropped and the midges came out. Day TwoIt was just after six when we set off from Shenavall and walked down to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga. This river was fairly low and was easily forded in footwear that we had carried for this purpose. Once on the south side we put on our walking boots and headed across a very boggy area to the foot of the first Munro of the day Beinn a'Chlaidheimh. The ascent of this mountain involved a steep climb through heather, avoiding rocky outcrops, which my client didn't find enjoyable. She was also still having problems with her pack despite the lighter load. It was a beautiful sunny morning with some fantastic views which can be seen from my photographs (see link). I insisted on a short break every hour to enable my client to eat and drink as it was going to be a long day and she needed all the reserves of energy she could muster. Higher up there were traces of a path and we eventually reached the north ridge of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and followed it over the 900 point to its summit where we had one of our hourly breaks taking in the mountain views. One Munro down three to go. This was followed by a descent to the twin lochans beside Am Briseadh where we had another break and where we loaded up on some water. The next section of the walk, the ascent of the north-east ridge of Sgurr Ban, was very rocky so I tried to use some of the grassy terraces. As we commenced this climb we spotted a couple of hinds, the Leeds couple descending Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and the guided hill walking group at Loch a'Bhrisidh. We reached the summit of Sgurr Ban and were joined by the Leeds couple before descending steeply down the south ridge and a steep ascent of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair up a sree filled path. The summit of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair was rather windy so we continued down its rocky south ridge, traversed below Meall Garbh to Bealach Odhar. After another one of our regular breaks we ascended the final Munro of the day Beinn Tarsuinn which was as far away from Shenavall as we were going to get that day. The descent of Beinn Tarsuinn was by the north-west ridge, over a section that looked like Table Mountain. We followed this ridge before dropping to the bealach, avoided a steep gorge, and into Gleann na Muice. By this time the mountains were covered in cloud and it started to rain intermittently. This was a very long walk out and my client was now very tired and her rucksack was still annoying her. Eventually we reached the path down the Glen and passed the route of the next day's walk up Gleann na Muice Beag where the other hill walking group were camped. At Larachantivore we crossed the Abhainn Gleann na Muice without the need to remove our boots as the river was low. The next section of the walk was across the very wet and boggy Strath na Sealga and we returned to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga where we changed our footwear for the river crossing. It was then a very short walk to the bothy at Shenavall, but by this time after over 15 hours out on the hills, my client was completely exhausted. At this time I doubted if she would make the following day's walk. It was the longest day walk she had every undertaken. I had to ensure that she ate before going to her 'penthouse suite' as she needed to try and replace some of her lost energy. Day ThreeLooking out from my tent early in the morning the cloud was almost down as far as the Loch so I decided against getting up at that time. Half an hour later the cloud was breaking up and I could see part of the hillside so it was time to get up and have breakfast. I was very surprised to find that my client was bright and breezy and raring to tackle the final two Munros of this backpacking trip. We set off around 7.30am and retraced the final section of the previous day's walk as far as Gleann na Muice Beag and took the good quality path up this Glen. It later climbed steeply before easing considerably as it crossed some heathery and boggy ground. We were now in very remote country miles from any habitation. The path traversed round the north side of the double Lochan Feith Mhi'-illean before heading south towards Fuar Loch Mor. As we progressed our way up this path, watched by several deer hinds, the cloud was breaking up and we entered some really spectacular scenery. The condition of the path deteriorated the higher we reached but it was still in reasonable condition and near the bealach between Ruadh Stac Mor and A'Mhaighdean it consisted of slab rock. Once at the bealach we set off for A'Mhaighdean with views back down our ascent route to the Fuar Loch Mor and on the other side to some of the Munros we had climbed the previous day. We climbed onto A'Mhaighdean's south ridge where we stopped and spoke to the other hill walking group who were all enjoying the sun that now engulfed the mountains. A final short walk took us to the summit of A'Mhaighdean and the awesome views out over the Dubh and Fionn Lochs to the Sea of the Hebrides. This in my opinion is one of the best views from any mountain in Scotland and my client agreed. Lunch was taken at the summit taking in the views before reluctantly leaving the summit and returning to the bealach. En-route we met some other walkers, who had possibly come in from Poolewe in a long day walk. We also saw the Leeds couple we were heading up onto this wonderful mountain summit. The next section had been worrying my client since she first saw it, the ascent of Ruadh Stac Mor. It involved climbing through a rock face before reaching a boulder field. My client was very nervous so I had to talk her through the rock face and onto the easier boulder field. From there we worked our way to the summit trig point where we had another break. In earlier days I used to return to the bealach and follow the route we ascended that morning but more recently I have descended Ruadh Stac Mor by its south ridge before dropping to Lochan a'Bhraghad being careful to avoid several rocky outcrops which are not shown on the map. This is what we did on this occasion and my client was pleased as she didn't fancy the descent to the bealach through the rocks. On the descent we were again watched by some hinds before we reached the south side of Loch a' Bhraghad and followed the outflow until it changed direction. From here we climbed onto the path we used earlier that day and followed it back down Gleann na Muice Beag and into Gleann na Muice. The route back to Shenavall was then the same as the previous day but at least on this occasion my client wasn't as exhausted. We reached Shenavall for a well earned rest and meal some 12 hours after setting out. Day FourThe final day was the walk out from Shenavall to Corrie Hallie, a reverse of day one. We set off from Shenavall and the steep climb out of Strath na Sealga. The client's laden pack was still causing her problems and was slowing her down. It took a long time to reach the vehicle track and despite the final section being downhill she was struggling which was understandable after such a tough couple of days. Eventually we reached Corrie Hallie and the end of the walk. ConclusionI have completed these six Munros on a single round, once from Corrie Hallie going as light as possible, and on other occasions from Shenavall. On this occasion, splitting the six Munros into two days allowed me more time to see the scenery around A'Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor and I probably enjoyed the walk more as I wasn't rushing to complete all six Munros. If you have the time don't rush these mountains take an extra day and enjoy them. For statistical details see here.
An Teallach9 September 2005
Some months ago I was asked by a senior partner in an Edinburgh solicitors firm if I would be prepared to guide some of his clients for two days walking in the Ullapool area. One of the days planned was to be An Teallach. A few days before this walk the weather forecast was showing snow above 1200 metres, with strong winds and a wind chill into the wind of -14C. This was of concern to me as the wind was too strong to risk taking clients on the An Teallach ridge. However this forecast did not materialise and changed to a more seasonal forecast. I met my clients at Braemore Junction, south of Ullapool and we drove to Corrie Hallie near Dundonnell, which was the start of the walk. We set off up the track in Gleann Chaorachain with one of the guys setting a cracking pace. I later learned that he was in training for a trip across the Sahara Desert in a few weeks time. At the high point on this track we took the path that leads to Shenavall bothy and followed it to the crossing of the stream that flows out of Lochan na Brathan. This was the start of a steady climb through rock, heather and some bog to the summit of Sail Liath, a Munro Top. It was mainly clear with some good views of the pinnacles of An Teallach, although there was a cold wind blowing. One of the party decided not to continue and returned to Corrie Hallie. The others descended to a bealach before climbing to the top of Stob Cadha Gobhlach followed by another descent before the Corrag Bhuidhe Buttress was approached. This is where the scrambling started but we avoided the climb up the buttress by climbing round it's side where we had a slight problem getting over and round a rocky section but we eventually reached the first pinnacle. My clients were coping well with the exposure and scrambling with Colin, the chap bound for the Sahara, appearing to be in his element. The scrambling continued as we took in all the pinnacles followed by Lord Berkley's Seat. Once at the bealach beyond this Munro Top my clients were able to look back and see how impressive Lord Berkley's Seat was with its sheer drop and how it leaned outwards. This was the end of the scrambling and we headed to the summit of the first Munro of the day, Sgurr Fiona. This was Shona'a 142nd Munro, half way round completing all 284 Munros, while this was Colin's first. We were also able to spend time taking in all the views including out over the Sea of the Hebrides. A drop to a bealach followed, before the climb to the second Munro, Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill. This was followed by a rocky descent to a bealach where Colin and Alan decided to climb the Munro Top, Glas Mheall Mor. They set off at 'race' pace to this summit and joined us lower down the glen. The rest of the group descended into Glas Tholl, steeply at first before picking up a path just below the bealach. This path, which was muddy and boggy in places, passed numerous small waterfalls. The bottom section of the path uses large rocks as the route before reaching the final obstacle, rhododendron bushes which required to be negotiated before reaching the main road just north of the starting point. My clients then headed for the Dundonnell Hotel for a well earned drink.
Fisherfield Six13 - 15 May 2005The Fisherfield Six, as I call them. are a group of six Munros, within the area known as the Fisherfield Forest. They are remote mountains with A'Mhaighdean one of the remotest Munros. To climb these Munros requires either several long walks in or a backpacking trip. I favour the backpacking trip, either staying in the bothy at Shenavall or camping nearby and tackling all six mountains in a very, very long day. So this was the plan for two clients this weekend. On the Friday afternoon I was uplifted from Inverness and driven to Corrie Hallie, near Dundonnell, which was the starting point for this adventure. Once we were laden with our rucksacks and camping gear, and I mustn't forget Frances's little red bag containing her food, we set off up Gleann Chaorachain. This was a steady climb and we met several people returning from their day's walking. By the time we reached the crossing of the Allt Gleann Chaorachain Frances was complaining about not taking her larger sack as she found carrying this plastic bag rather awkward and sweaty, as the late afternoon sun shone heating up the glen. This brought back memories of my last visit to this area when the client carried some of her gear in a black bin liner. I'm sure neither lady will fall into this trap again. Once across the Allt Gleann Chaorachain the track climbed steeply till it reached the path that we required to take to reach Shenavall. The path was fairly dry and most of the boggy sections were avoidable. The final half hour was downhill to the bothy at Shenavall where we set up our tents. The next morning I was up before five to prepare for the long day in front of us. It had been a cold night with some frost and Frances said she had been cold throughout the night. At 6.20am we set off for the short walk down to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga where it was noticeably colder. The crossing of the river wasn't difficult and we headed across the Strath na Sealga which was wet and boggy in several places, before commencing the climb of our first Munro, Beinn a'Chlaidheimh. This was a steep climb searching for the easiest route through rocks and rough terrain. The sun was shining so it looked like we would be fortunate in the choice of dates for this visit. It took us a couple of hours to reach the north ridge of this mountain and the final climb to the summit. There was a cool wind blowing on the summit ridge but it was ideal for walking. Once we had a second breakfast we set off down the south ridge of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh to the two small lochans beside Am Briseadh where we loaded up with water. Andy, my other client, took on four litres of water, no wonder he required a large sack. I have never seen anyone drink so much water on a day walk in Scotland. From the lochans we headed up the rocky ridge of Sgurr Ban with several large patches of snow. On this summit we had another break while taking in the surrounding views of the numerous mountains, too many to count or name. Once fed and watered we dropped to the Sgurr Ban/Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair bealach before the steep climb through scree, some snow, and loose earth to the summit of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair. We were now half way through bagging the six Munros but a long way from the end of the walking day. There was no break on this summit and we descended steeply down through rocks and snow before taking the path below Meall Garbh to the Bealach Odhar and the climb to the fourth Munro Beinn Tarsuinn where we had lunch. We had good views of Slioch, the Torridon mountains and we could see out to Skye and the Western Isles and that was only looking westwards. This was roughly our half way point in our walk and we were a long way from our tents. During the afternoon the sun disappeared and was replaced by a thin veil of cloud and the wind was still cold . We walked along the narrowing north ridge of Beinn Tarsuinn, where there is a large level area like a table top, before descending steeply to the level area between Beinn Tarsuinn and our next Munro A'Mhaighdean. On the descent we came across a couple of ptarmigan and we also topped up with some more water. The walk across this level area requires a lot of twisting and turning to avoid bogs and peat hags so we were pleased when we reached the other side. The long pull up the mainly grassy ridge of A'Mhaighdean took its toll on my clients who were now feeling the effects of their long day. However I had already told them of the spectacular views once at the summit. Although it was cold on the top they were not disappointed. The views, in my opinion are probably the best from any mountain in Scotland, with its 3,000 feet drop to the Dubh and Fionn Lochs and the view out to the Sea of the Hebrides and the Western Isles. Spectacular, but only for the hardened hill walker as the area is so remote. We sat here for a while and had something to eat before commencing the descent of A'Mhaighdean where we saw a leveret, which hid under a large rock. We also got very close to a ptarmigan which was perched on the edge of a large rock. The final Munro was Ruadh Stac Mor, which is very rocky on its west side, However Andy preferred this to the grassy A'Mhaighdean and was soon heading for the summit. After a brief stop on our final Munro we headed along the ridge, down to Lochan a'Bhraghad and to the Gleann na Muice Beag track where we disturbed a large herd of deer. It was a long walk back down this glen and then Gleann na Muice with a couple of rest stops. My clients found a suitable crossing point of the Abhainn Gleann na Muice before we headed over the wet and boggy Strath na Sealga where Frances ended up deep in a bog. I also went into a boggy section but at least it wasn't over my boots. I think we were distracted by the awesome sun set with the sky and mountains around us a bright red colour. Once over this Strath we re-crossed the Abhainn Srath na Sealga at the location we had crossed nearly sixteen hours earlier and headed up to our tents. It was just after 10pm. I retired to my tent but I think my clients still had some energy left to converse with the residents in the bothy and cook their evening meal. The next day was a long lie till 7.30am when we rose and had a leisurely breakfast. The mountain tops were covered in cloud so we had been lucky as the day before all the mountains were clear of cloud all day. Just after 9am we set off back up the path to Gleann Chaorachain and a slow plod back to Corrie Hallie and the end of a tough weekend.
A Kinlochewe Graham16 March 2005It had been a wet and windy morning but I was determined not to sit about all day looking out the window at Beinn Eighe, so after lunch I drove to Incheril, just south of Kinlochewe and parked in the car park there. I set off down the wet and muddy path which runs along the east shore of the Kinlochewe River. The river was in spate and there was some flooding in places. However the weather was mainly dry at this time and I was relatively sheltered from the wind. It was obvious it was windy higher up as water from the swollen streams was being blown back up the hillside. I followed this path almost as far as Loch Maree before climbing towards a waterfall. Here I disturbed several deer sheltering from the wind. As I approached the waterfall I was searching for a route through the wet rocks and disturbed more deer which were unable to cross the gorge and had to climb higher up to get away from me. At least I knew there was a possible route through the rocks. A scramble through the slippery rocks took me to higher ground. When I looked back I saw water from the stream being blown skywards like smoke from a chimney. I was using several of the small lochans as navigation aids and beside one of these lochans I came very close to a mature stag with his head down feeding away. It took him several minutes to note my presence before he took off. The final climb to the first cairn of Beinn a'Mhuinidh was a bit steeper with some patches of wet snow which I was able to avoid before climbing through some rocks. The final stretch to the true summit was across some undulating ground. Here it was rather windy but I still managed a quick look around to view the cloud topped mountains of Fisherfield, Slioch and Torridon. My planned descent was to take the easier angled route to the south with its many lochans and temporary streams caused by the heavy rain and snow melt. On the descent it started to rain and it progressively got heavier as I progressed across some rough ground. My return took me down to the track between the Heights of Kinlochewe and Incheril which runs along the side of the Abhainn Bruachaig. This river was rather wild due to the volume of water. My return to Incheril was in heavy rain and the semi-dark. However it had been an enjoyable walk despite the weather conditions during the second half.
Return to Letterewe13 March 2005The plan was to take clients into the remote Letterewe area, which together with Fisherfield to the east, combines to make a large wilderness area in the north-west of Scotland. The drive to Poolewe, the starting point for the walk, was along ice and snow covered roads. We parked in the car park beside the bridge over the River Ewe and followed the track along the east side of the River past Inveran to Loch an Doire Ghairbh. Beyond this Loch a path, which is not marked on the map, cuts across the hillside to join the Kernsary to Ardlair track. The start of the path is obvious but deteriorates as you climb up over a rise and is boggy and undistinguishable at the far end. Once on this path the first snow shower of the day struck. Fortunately the wind and snow were on our backs so it didn't hamper our progress too much, just curtailed our visibility. Once the snow shower cleared the sun appeared as we walked along the track towards Ardlair so we took this opportunity to stop for a break. Thereafter the walk continued along this track until an old sheep fank was reached, where a path leads up the mountain to below Spidean nan Clach. The path was covered in snow and in places some ice, so care was required. As we gained height the path was difficult to locate in the snow. However as it follows a stream that flows down from the col between Spidean nan Clach and Meal Chnaimhean it wasn't too difficult to work out where it should be found, even during the occasional snow shower. A large herd of deer watched us as we progressed towards the col. The climb, from just below the col became a bit steeper with a greater depth of snow and more icy patches. The gradient eased before a final steeper climb to the summit trig point of Beinn Airigh Charr. The weather had by this time deteriorated with low cloud, a strong wind and it started to snow again so visibility was fairly poor. On reaching the summit there was no point in hanging about as there was nothing to see so we headed back towards the col and sought some shelter behind some rocks for lunch. We then resumed our descent and the low cloud cleared. It was a fairly lengthy walk back to the Kernsary to Ardlair track but quite pleasant sliding about in the snow. We took the short cut across the hillside towards Loch an Doire Ghairbh and then the track back to Poolewe and the end of a long day. As expected in this remote part of Scotland and in these winter conditions we never came across any other walkers and there was no evidence anyone else had been out on theses hills that day.
Fisherfield28 November 2004On a previous visit to the Fisherfield area to climb the Corbett, Beinn a'Chaisgein Mor, (see below) I thought it looked possible to climb the two Beinn Dearg Corbetts from the north. Reference books indicate an approach from the east but this requires two river crossings on the way in and also on the way back. A well known climber, whom I know, who has written route plans for some of the northern Corbetts, was able to confirm that he had climbed these hills from the north. I left my car at Gruinard on the A832 between Dundonnell and Poolewe. At this time it was just turning daylight so I was able to see the track as I cycled south on the west side of the Gruinard River. An hour later I arrived at the end of the track at the north-west end of Loch na Sealga where I left my cycle. The building shown on the Ordnance Survey Map no longer exists although there are two secure small containers there along with three boats which the Estate obviously use to access the remoter parts of their land. The walk commenced along the south shore of Loch na Sealga before making a gradual ascent, initially over rough and wet ground to below the north ridge of Beinn Dearg Bheag in occasional snow showers and disturbing lots of deer feeding in the area. A steep climb followed, avoiding rocky outcrops, until I reached the snow level at 700 metres. The ridge began to narrow and became more rocky. Extreme care was required as the rocks were covered in snow and ice which slowed progress. However this wasn't a problem to the ptarmigan who were at home in their winter plumage camouflaged by the snow. On several occasions I had to drop off the ridge for short stretches to traverse round steep rock. This reminded me of An Teallach which I could see on the other side of Loch na Sealga. After several ups and downs and negotiating narrow sections of the ridge I eventually reached the summit of Beinn Dearg Bheag which was at this time clear of cloud. I descended the stony and snow covered south ridge to the bealach which was clear of snow but this was short lived. As I commenced the final climb of the day the cloud lowered and the snow started to fall again. This steep climb through more stony, snow covered ground took me onto the ridge of Beinn Dearg Mor. This ridge is about 90 metres higher than Beinn Dearg Bheag and had a significant covering of snow. In fact it was knee deep as I approached the summit cairn. The cloud didn't break completely but it was obvious to me that there were sheer drops on either side. I remained at the cairn in the hope that the cloud would lift but to no avail so I headed back towards the bealach. As was my luck, once half way down, the cloud cleared and shortly thereafter the sun came out so this was a good opportunity to stop for a late lunch. I sat, sheltered from the cool breeze, enjoying the sun and taking in the views towards the snow covered mountains of Torridon. However I couldn't remain there for long as I only had a few hours of daylight left and a long walk back to my cycle. Once l had eaten my lunch I continued to the bealach and then steeply down to Loch Toll an Lochain avoiding the rocks. I went round the west side of the Loch which was sandy in places before crossing over the east ridge of Beinn Dearg Bheag. This traverse was over awkward and wet ground and it was a relief when I came across some heathery terrain which allowed me to make quicker progress. However lower down the terrain was once again wet and difficult to cross. It was almost dark when I reached the shores of Loch na Sealga and as was the case with Ben Aden a few weeks earlier it was difficult to make out the water's edge. However I wasn't too bothered as my feet were wet from all the boggy and snow covered ground that I had crossed during the day. On reaching the north-west end of the Loch I collected my cycle and commenced the long cycle back to my car. Initially I cycled without using my head torch but after a while it became difficult to see the boulders etc so I had to switch it on. Progress was slow at times especially when the track came close to the fast flowing Gruinard River but I successfully made it back to my car nearly ten hours after I had set out. Once I had recovered I realised that it had been a successful outing as I had reduced my tally of four Corbetts left to climb to two.
Fisherfield24 October 2004I was down to single figures in my quest to climb all the 219 Corbetts, mountains between 2,500 and 3,000 feet with a drop on all sides of 500 feet. Some state that there are 220 Corbetts but two of these Corbetts are on the same ridge, are given the same height, and do not appear to have the required drop between them. Obviously this is open to some debate. On this Sunday morning I set off on my mountain bike from the A832 at Gruinard, located between Dundonnell and Poolewe. I followed the track south on the west bank of the Gruinard River, through a herd of cattle that had, in places, churned up the track. Further on I disturbed some deer and a few decided to swim the River which was in spate. The stags had survived the cull which finished on the twentieth but now it was the turn of the hinds. However as it was Sunday there was no stalking. After nearly an hour of cycling, well I did push my bike on the uphill sections, I reached the Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain where I left my bike. I was pleased to see that there was a concrete bridge across the burn. Once on the west bank I walked up the side of the Allt. It was a bit wet and boggy in places but on reaching steeper ground the conditions improved. Once higher up I had to re-cross the Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain and follow a small stream south-westwards towards more wet and boggy ground. From here I located a stalker's path, which was obviously little used, and followed it in a similar direction as it climbed then dropped to cross the Uisge Toll a'Mhadaidh. I could hear the stags in the area of Corrie Toll a'Mhadaidh roaring as the rut was in progress. I followed this path as it climbed to the bealach south of Beinn a'Chaisgein Beag before climbing to its summit cairn and trig point. The weather had been fairly pleasant during my approach but on reaching the bealach the wind increased and low cloud spread in with spots of rain. Fortunately the rain didn't materialise at this time and the cloud lifted slightly as I returned to the bealach and the long walk up the south ridge of Bidean a'Chaisgein Mor to its summit. As I approached, a large number of ptarmigan flew off and fought against the wind. Winter is obviously on its way as the ptarmigan's plumage was turning white. It had taken me nearly five hours to reach this point and with the weather conditions about to deteriorate I had my lunch sheltering behind some rocks looking down on the Fionn Loch and the Corbetts beyond. As the rain started I set off for my return to the bealach and the stalker's path leading me back towards my bike. Unfortunately I got a wet leg re-crossing the swollen Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain but by this time the rain was fairly heavy so it was really immaterial that one leg and boot was soaking. On reaching the track beside the Gruinard River I collected my bike and cycled back to the start rather wet. Despite the weather it was a pleasant walk and cycle and once again I never met anyone else on a Corbett expedition. It was an interesting approach to this Corbett and avoided two river crossings (twice) and possibly an overnight stay at Shenavall bothy. It also gave me a different perspective of this remote area.
Letterewe11 September 2004It was still dark as I arrived at Poolewe for my day's walk in the Letterewe Forest area of what is commonly known as "The Great Wilderness". I set off in the semi-darkness and cycled along the track to Kernsary where I left my cycle. I continued east through a forest and walked along the path to Fionn Loch a distance of about 5 miles in heavy rain with low cloud shrouding the hills. It was initially a pretty miserable walk but my sights were set on at least climbing the distant Corbett Beinn Lair. On approaching the Fionn Loch with views of the Causeway across to Carnmore the rain ceased, the cloud base started to rise and the day looked more promising. I stopped to take on some food before commencing the climb of the stalker's path to Bealach Mheinnidh. At its highest point I turned east and headed for Beinn Lair. Just short of the summit there is a cairn where I had fine views of A'Mhaighdean and some of the other Fisherfield mountains. There was also good views of An Teallach and back towards Poolewe and Gairloch. I continued onto the summit of Beinn Lair where I had views of Slioch. I returned to Bealach Mheinnidh and climbed the Graham, Meall Mheinnidh. The wind had picked up and was fairly strong on the summit but fortunately there were numerous large rocks for me to shelter behind for my second break of the day. The descent off Meall Mheinnidh is more difficult than the map shows as there is a lot of rock so the drop to Srathan Buidhe took longer than I expected. Near the high point here three Highland cows, who were feeding in the glen, were surprised by my sudden appearance and watched me as I headed up Beinn Airigh Charr. This was a fairly easy walk up its south-east ridge and higher up I surprised some deer feeding in one of the hollows. The wind was now very strong and it was raining again as the cloud floated about the summit. Once I reached the trig point I headed down towards a stalker's path that would lead me to the Ardlair to Kernsary track. Not long after leaving the summit I saw a couple of antlers behind some rocks and suddenly a stag stood up and stared at me. We looked at each other for several minutes before I moved and the stag ran off. The stalker's path was found and I followed it down to the Ardlair to Kernsary track before walking back to Kernsary and a cycle back to Poolewe, the end of a long but enjoyable day in a very remote part of the country. During this trip I never saw or met anyone else so it is possible to walk in Scotland at the weekend without meeting another soul, well at least when the weather forecast is poor.
Sail Mhor10 April 2004The starting point was the A832 at Ardessie with a climb up the path on the east side of the Allt Airdeasaidh past several rock pools and waterfalls. Higher up this burn was crossed, followed by a steep climb up onto Sail Mhor past weather beaten sandstone tors which had collapsed. The summit was shrouded in low cloud so we descended the south ridge but this was abruptly halted when the cloud cleared leaving spectacular views of the Summer Isles and clearing cloud on the Fisherfield Munros and Corbetts along with An Teallach. After a long break taking in the ever extending views the steep descent to the col continued before a short climb to the summit of Ruigh Mheallain was made. This necessitated a scramble onto a large boulder to be physically on the highest point. The return to the Allt Airdeasaidh was made over some rocky and boggy ground disturbing some deer en-route before we returned to Ardessie.
Slioch28 February 2004Aberdeen had experienced a week of snow and strong winds with the closure of several roads so I was keeping a close eye on the weather forecast and road reports to ascertain whether the weekend booking of Munro Bagging in the North-West of Scotland would be possible. On the Friday afternoon I travelled to Inverness and on retiring for the night it was again snowing. Early the next morning I met Janice, Frances and Eric and we drove to Incheril, east of Kinlochewe where we abandoned our cars in the snow covered car park. It was bitterly cold but bright and the prospect of a fine day’s hillwalking looked good. Well wrapped up against the chill we headed along the path at the side of the Kinlochewe River. Initially the path was well trampled by sheep pacing up and down searching for food in the deep snow. There were also traces of boot prints in the snow, probably from the previous day. As we walked down this path the sun came out and lit up the surrounding mountains but progress was relatively slow, not by the ability of my clients, but by the depth of snow. A short distance beyond the head of Loch Maree we reached Gleann Bianasdail crossed the footbridge and walked up the side of the Abhainn an Fhasaigh with its torrent of water rushing over rocks and through narrow gaps. We had lost height so once across the bridge the climbing started as we headed up towards Coire na Sleaghaich. The sky was cloudless and we had good views of Beinn Eighe, a massive mountain on the other side of Loch Maree. The climbing was tiring, breaking tracks through the deep snow and with the sun out it became very warm so we discarded our outer layers of winter clothing. Janice was down to her ‘T’ shirt and was hoping to pose like this on the summit. In the corrie, as expected, the snow was even deeper. Progress was reduced further by the snow which was now knee deep at times and on occasions even deeper which halted progress completely. Thankfully it was cooler here as we were hidden from the direct rays of the sun and there was a slight cold breeze. At snail’s pace we headed onto the wind blown south-east ridge. Here there were terrific views of the snow clad Torridon mountains glistening in the sun. The struggle to reach this point was well worth it for these stunning views. The main problem was the snow had slowed our progress drastically and I now had to set a target time when we would have to cancel our challenge to reach the summit. This was obviously disappointing to my colleagues and me but I had to consider that it got dark around 6pm. At the twin lochans a bank of cloud engulfed us before we climbed up a short steep section of the ridge. On reaching the top of this section the cloud dispersed and we could see our target in the distance. It looked like we could reach it before the deadline I set for our return. Compared to what we had climbed through, it was a reasonably easy walk along the ridge to the trig point and onto the true summit beyond. It had taken us more than six hours to reach the summit. In normal conditions it should take less than four hours. Everyone was happy especially Janice as this was Munro number 276 in her quest to climb all 284 Munros. They posed for photographs so I hope they download and do justice to the tremendous views from this castle like summit. A picture is better than a thousand words and anyway I don’t think I could do the views justice here. The eventful day however was not finished. The finale was the traverse of a narrow ridge to reach the Munro Top, Sgurr an Tuill Bhain. I had not mentioned this to Frances as I am aware that she is apprehensive on ridges. The ridge was mostly hidden by large quantities of windblown snow, some thigh deep. This meant working out where the ridge line lay before crossing it. I had to encourage Frances not to look over the edge as this is a mistake if you have any fear of heights on narrow ridges. We eventually reached Sgurr an Thuill Bhain and Frances’s heart rate settled down again. Janice and Eric appeared to be unperturbed and took it in their stride. However all the problems were forgotten as we admired the magnificent views of the Fisherfield Munros and An Tellach. The descent back into the corrie was through deep snow and once we had struggled across the bottom of the corrie we picked up the tracks we made on the upward route. The descent to Gleann Bianasdail was made as the sun was going down so by the time we returned to Loch Maree it was dark. It was then a plod back along the path to the start but at least Eric was able to use his newly purchased head torch. The moon and stars were bright and we disturbed some deer who seemed a bit confused by our appearance. We arrived back at the car nearly 11 hours after we had set out, on a walk that should have taken between 7 – 8 hours. It was now -6 degrees centigrade and I was unable to untie my boot laces as they were frozen solid so had to go back to Inverness still wearing my boots.
Fisherfield15 February 2004A trip to the Corbett Creag Rainich, located between the Fisherfield and Fannaich mountains was planned. Approaching the starting point the skies were clear and the sun was out giving spectacular views of An Teallach. The start was on the road known as ‘Destitution Road’ which runs from Braemore Junction towards Corrie Hallie. Night frost still hung to the vegetation as we headed along the track to Loch a’Bhraoin and the ‘Right of Way’ along its north-west side. As the temperature rose we climbed up the hillside to the summit trig point. Here we had good views of several of the Fisherfield Munros and of Beinn Eighe. Once we had our fill of views we descended back towards Loch a’Bhraoin stopping en-route for lunch. The sun was out again and it was pleasant sitting there taking in the views of the Fannaichs in front of us. Although it was mid February there were only a few patches of snow and it felt more like late spring. In fact I have experienced worse weather in summer. On approaching Loch a’Bhraoin it was almost impossible to tell where the water commenced as the whole Loch, stretching for approximately three miles, was like an enormous mirror. The water was so smooth that every aspect of the surrounding scenery was reflected on the Loch and in fact the reflections were clearer than the actual scenery itself. These were probably the best reflective views I have ever seen, so where was ‘Colin Prior’? I might even sell him some of my pictures if they do justice to this spectacular phenomenon. On reaching the edge of the Loch it was still difficult to see where the water’s edge was and on throwing a pebble into the water the ripples lasted for ages as they spread out and a light haze appeared above the water. The walk back along the side of the loch was magnificent with the promontories giving the impression of extended overhangs which we could have walked underneath. Unfortunately we reached the end of the Loch and a short walk back to the car. However the reflections on the Loch will remain with me for many years to come and will be hard to beat. Reference books state that the slopes of Creag Rainich are uninteresting. The slopes may be uninteresting but the views are spectacular and you never know you might be lucky to get similar reflections in Loch a’Bhraoin.
An Teallach19 July 2003This Saturday found me leading a walk on An Teallach. Frances had been asking me to take her up this mountain for sometime now and today the opportunity arose as she had decided to come along to the walk on The Deargs (see Walks on Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills) Although she does some indoor climbing she was a bit concerned about doing An Teallach and brought her friend Alison along for some reassurance. The weather was a bit cloudier than in recent days but good views were had over to the Fisherfield Munros. The track from Corrie Hallie up Gleann Chaorachain was fairly busy with walkers heading for the Fisherfield hills so once we started climbing Sail Liath we were on our own. Once over the first two Munro Tops we avoided the crest of the ridge and walked along the narrow and sometimes eroded path to its west. We did climb to the summits of the Munro Tops Corrag Bhuidhe and Lord Berkeley’s Seat. Frances, who had no problems despite her reservations, managed to get to these summits although once on the actual tops she turned a bit pale and would only stay there for a few minutes while photographs were taken. Alison appeared unperturbed by her lofty and exposed position. The rest of the day was uneventful and we successfully climbed the two Munros. The only down side was it rained for a short time on our descent.
Fisherfield Six30 May - 1 June 2003This trip to the Fisherfield Six was proposed for the middle of May but postponed due to poor weather forecasts. Having spent most of the last week of May studying various forecasts, which all showed a changeable weekend, I headed for Inverness. At teatime, while sitting waiting for Janice, it started to rain and, although warm, I was wondering whether or not we had made the correct decision. However the rain shower was short lived. The drive north to Corrie Hallie was uneventful although my chauffeur did attempt on at least a couple of occasions to head in another direction. Was this her way of telling me that she had changed her mind about this expedition? At 8.30pm we set off for the walk to Shenavall. Although overloaded Janice did manage to leave the kitchen sink behind. Immediately after leaving the main road the track climbed steadily up Gleann Chaorachain through a nice wooded area before crossing a stream and climbing steeply to its highest point. By this time I was sweating profusely as it was very warm for that time of night. Janice denied that she was perspiring, so it was just me who was unfit. We then walked along the path towards our base for the weekend with good views of An Teallach on our right and some of tomorrow’s mountains appearing in front of us. The noise of a cuckoo was heard and stayed with us during out stay at Shenavall. On arrival at the bothy at 10.45pm we met three chaps from the Stirling/Dunblane area sitting outside the bothy in lovely surroundings and on a beautiful midge free evening, partaking of a dram. They were the only human occupants of the bothy although several other walkers were camped nearby. We set up our tents and retired for the evening. Other walkers arrived later and pitched their tents nearby. They kept Janice awake but this allowed her to read all of her local newspaper which she had carried in, except for an article she was saving for the second night in the tent. Awake and up at 6am after a reasonable night’s sleep. We didn’t need Janice’s alarm clock. After breakfast we set off at 7.05am and walked down to the river, Abhainn Srath na Sealga, which was very low and easy to cross for a change. We then headed up Beinn a’Chlaidheimh towards a gully slightly to the west of the steep and rocky south ridge. It was hard work in the warm weather and hazy sunshine. Obviously we were going to have to take on more water due to the heat, so that’s what we did from the last dregs of a stream high up on the mountain. On reaching the summit we could see some of the mountains we were to tackle later in the day a long distance off. Although we were in a remote area seven other Munro Baggers were in front hoping to conquer these six mountains. We dropped down to some small lochans beside Am Briseadh where we had a brew up and something to eat prior to tackling the stony and rocky northeast ridge of Sgurr Ban. An hour later we were on its summit with Munro number two of the day under our belts. A descent down to the bealach, where there was no trace of any water, and a steep climb took us onto Munro number three, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair. Half way there and it wasn’t even lunchtime yet. Some cloud was now floating about but it looked like the weather would hold out for another few hours yet, although the forecast did say rain in the afternoon. Continuing our descent north onto a narrow path under Meall Garbh, we changed direction as we reached Bealach Odhar. Here we met a party of three who were undecided on their target for the day. A steady plod took us to the summit cairn of Beinn Tarsuinn, which is on a good viewing ridge. We were able to look back at what we had completed that morning and the two Munros we still had to conquer. Below us in one of the small lochans a deer was paddling about trying to cool down. The party of three guys joined us, together with a resident from the bothy who had taken in the Munro Tops. Two of the party of three decided that enough was enough and descended down into Gleann na Muice and returned to Corrie Hallie. The rest of us then descended down to the ridge, which is narrow in places and has an area similar to a tabletop. Some easy scrambling was required as we negotiated the ridge before descending down to the bealach at 525 metres looking for water. The area was remarkably dry so we were forced to descend to the streams below Stac a’Chaorruinn to collect water and have a late lunch with freshly boiled water for tea and coffee. After lunch it was a hot and steep climb up through the rocks onto the grassy slopes of A’Mhaighdean. As our pace slowed spots of rain were felt although we could see Slioch and in the haze Beinn Eighe, Liathach and Beinn Alligin. Having walked this route before I was aware that it was a bit of a plod and that the best part as usual was reaching the summit. However the location of this summit also gives you spectacular views that suddenly open up only as you arrive at the top. 3,000 feet below us were several lochs including the Dubh and Fionn Lochs. It is my opinion that this location gives you the best view from any Munro summit. Reluctantly time was getting on and we still had one Munro to climb before the long walk back to Shenavall. So it was time to leave this magnificent location and descend down the stalker’s path that takes you down past Fuar Loch Mor. Prior to reaching the path we stood and watched three hinds, which were close by, and they in turn stood and watched us. The ascent of Ruadh Stac Mor is a bit tricky due to a ledge of rock which has to be negoiated and lots of loose boulders which cover the summit. So after another hard slog we reached the cairn and now we could see the long route back to the tents. To shorten the route we descended down to Lochan a’Bhraghad, avoided some rocky outcrops that are not shown on the map, and followed a faint path down to Gleann na Muice Beag . The pace was slowing as we walked down this glen on the well-made stalker's path before joining the path down Gleann na Muice. A short break to chat to a couple we had met on the last two hills, and who were camping in the glen, gave us a breather before crossing the Abhainn Gleann na Muice near Larachantivore. Across boggy ground, which fortunately wasn’t that wet, before our final river crossing of the Abhainn Srath na Sealga and the stroll up to the bothy at Shenavall arriving there at 10.05pm, fifteen hours after we had set out. The midges were out and biting so we went into the bothy to eat and were made most welcome by the occupants who congratulated us on completing such a long walk. One guy gave up his chair so that Janice could have a rest while she ate her tea or should it be her supper. Just before midnight we returned to our tents for a well-earned rest. Janice forgot to read the article in her newspaper. A long lie after the exertions of the previous day. Up at 7am on a reasonably nice morning with the clouds above the summits. After breakfast and packing we left Shenavall at 9am for the climb out of the Glen and into Gleann Chaorachain. En route we had to don waterproofs, as the spots of rain were rather large. This was the first time we had walked with anything other than a ‘t’ shirt on. At that point we spotted some wild goats on the hillside. On the descent down Gleann Chaorachain we met a few walkers heading for An Teallach. At 11.30am we arrived back at Corrie Hallie rather tired but Janice was happy to head home to insert the six ticks in her book. Reference books say that attempting these six Munros in one outing is only for the very fit so well done Janice you are obviously very fit and did well in the warm conditions. Those who know Janice will no doubt recognise her from this biography, so sorry Janice I don’t think you can remain anonymous for much longer.
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