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Section 8 - Cairngorms and Buchan Mountains
Section 8 - This section refers to the hills and mountains of the Cairngorms and Buchan area which includes the hills around Dufftown, Tarland, Strathdon and the Lecht.. They cover the Corbetts, Grahams and Munros that I have climbed in this area since 2003.
Index of Hills in this SectionBen Macdui and Cairn Gorm21 December 2007
It was frosty when we left Inverness and headed south on the A9 to Aviemore where it was even colder. However on the drive up the Ski Road to the Coire Cas car park the temperature had risen above freezing point and it was remarkably balmy compared to lower down. Graham, John from New Hampshire USA and I set off along the path that headed south-west from the Ski Centre and crossed the Allt Coire an t-Sneachda and later on the stream that flowed out of Coir an Lochain. Here there was some ice to avoid. The sky was cloud free with very good visibility and as height was gained the hills to the west were red as the sun rose. The 1083 metre point was reached with views across the Lairig Ghru to Braeriach, Cairn Toul and Carn an Lochan Uaine. A slight change of direction followed with more height gained and some snow with icy patches underfoot. We stopped for a short break and put on crampons before descending slightly to the col between the March Burn and Lochan Buidhe. The route from here to the summit of Ben Macdui was cairned in places and there were several other walkers around taking the benefit of the superb conditions. The summit trig point was reached and we had awesome views across to the mountains already mentioned, south to Lochnagar and east to Beinn a'Bhuird and Ben Avon. We returned towards Lochan Buidhe stopping en-route for lunch while looking west to Ben Nevis and north to Ben Wyvis and the Caithness Hills. Afterwards we walked across snow and ice to the top of Coire Domhain and Coire Raibeirt. It was then a steady climb to the summit of Cairn Gorm, where as well as a cairn there is a weather station. There was limited snow on the north side of Cairn Gorm so there was no longer a need for crampons which we removed before descending to the Ptarmigan Restaurant and the top Funicular Station. Here there was some limited skiing although it appeared that only one tow was open and the run narrow. The descent was down the Sron an Aonaich ridge before dropping into the Coire Cas car park and the end of a superb day on the Cairngorm plateau.
The Devil's Point, Cairn Toul & Sgor an Lochain Uaine20 June 2007
It was a very early start for this walk to some of the remoter Munros in the Cairngorms. If we were successful it would mean that my client, Laila, would only be left with one more Munro to complete all 284. The short drive from Braemar to the car park at the Linn of Dee was like being on a nature trail. Within minutes we saw red deer, roe deer, an owl and a red squirrel and that was just during the first few miles. It was still dry when we left the car park, walked through the wood and onto the vehicle track that led to Derry Lodge. Here we saw more deer, both red and roe. During the hours walk to Derry Lodge it started to rain as forecasted. From Derry Lodge we walked the path to the Luibeg Burn, crossed this river and continued on the path towards the Lairig Ghru. The wind had picked up and the rain was now heavy and the conditions as we headed for Corrour Bothy were pretty awful, but at least the wind and rain were on our backs. On reaching the Bothy we took shelter for a while and spoke to the occupants, an Australian walking the Lairig Ghru over two days and a Cornish chap climbing some of the Munros when the weather was fair. We left the comfort of the Bothy, which had had some interior work carried out and where an outside loo was being constructed, and took the path up into Coire Odhair. The path had recently been repaired, probably using money from the pay and display car park at the Linn of Dee, so at least the £2 parking fee was going to a good cause. In the Coire we were afforded some shelter from the wind and rain and the cloud was occasionally breaking over The Devil’s Point. The heavy rain had changed to showers by the time we reached the bealach and headed into the wind towards the summit of The Devil’s Point. On reaching this summit we had views into the Lairig Ghru and of some of the surrounding mountains. We returned to the bealach and commenced the ascent of Cairn Toul as the cloud lowered again. Rather than taking one of the walker’s paths not knowing where it headed, we kept to the edge of Coire Odhar and Coire an t-Sabhail, which entailed crossing some rocky ground, over the summit of the Munro Top Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir to Cairn Toul. The descent of Cairn Toul was over some rocks but the ascent of Sgor an Lochain Uaine was relatively easy up a mainly grassy summit. We were still in the cloud so once at the summit cairn we returned to the bealach. Rather than re-ascend Cairn Toul we kept at the bealach height and traversed below Cairn Toul, over some more rocky ground. Eventually to my client’s delight, as she didn’t like the underfoot conditions, we reached a path and continued the descent. A few minutes later we came out of the cloud and continued on the descent to the bealach above Coire Odhair, then into the Coire and back to Corrour Bothy. We had a very late lunch in the Bothy along with three French walkers who were washing there lunch down with a bottle of wine. There were also a large group from Wales who were pitching their tents and trying to dry out their gear. They were seeking some advice on the ascent of Ben Macdui from the Lairig Ghru. After lunch we headed back to the Linn of Dee in pleasant late afternoon sun although it rained again for the last ten minutes of the walk. Laila was pleased that she was finished. Her final Munro, Ben Vorlich in the Arrochar Alps will be a far easier day.
Beinn Mheadhoin8 May 2007
The starting point of this walk was the Coire Cas car park at the Cairngorm Ski Centre. From there we followed the vehicle track up the side of the Funicular Railway before heading into the cloud and ascending the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais ridge. On reaching the cairn at the head of the ridge we commenced the descent, in sleet and hail, towards the path in Coire Raibeirt and eventually came out of the cloud. Lower down the path became steep and was badly eroded, even more so since my previous visit. Eventually we reached Loch Avon and followed the path round its west side crossing the Feith Buidhe en-route. From the head of Loch Avon it was a steady climb towards Loch Etchachan but at a small lochan we commenced the ascent of Beinn Mheadhoin eventually reaching the summit tor. To get to the highest point, required some easy climbing. From the summit and its approach we had some good views of the surrounding Cairngorm mountains, of Lochnagar and possibly of the distant Ben Lawers. However the summit was soon engulfed by cloud. The return was by the outward route but in the higher reaches of Coire Raibeirt we were engulfed by cloud and blasted by hail and sleet. The low cloud persisted to well down the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais ridge but eventually we came out of the cloud and continued to the Coire Cas car park and the end of the day's walk.
Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mor1 May 2007
A reasonable early start was required for this expedition into the Cairngorms as it was to be a long day as the lady booking this trip wanted to walk in rather than make use of mountains bikes. However the weather was in our favour. After a cold and in some places frosty morning the sun was out and the sky devoid of cloud. The five of us set out along the vehicle track from the Linn of Dee to the White Bridge where we crossed the River Dee then followed the track up the south-west side of the river, beyond the Chest of Dee and towards a small forest plantation. Just beyond this forest plantation we crossed a small stream and took a walker’s path towards the summit of Carn Cloich-mhuilinn with the ever increasing views in particular of the south face of Ben Macdui and across Glen Geldie to Carn an Fhidhleir and An Sgarsoch, which I had climbed with two of these ladies in 2006. It was now fairly warm and once over Carn Cloich-mhuilinn we lost a bit of height before the steady climb towards the summit of Beinn Bhrotain, stopping off to top-up with water from a stream. On reaching the summit trig point of Beinn Bhrotain we had lunch in the sun taking in the views of the high Cairngorm mountains. Thereafter we descended over some boulder strewn ground before reaching the narrow bealach with Monadh Mor where we passed two lady walkers heading in the opposite direction, the only other walkers we saw all day. We climbed to Monadh Mor’s south top before heading to the true summit a short distance further north. It was at this point my clients had to make a decision whether to return by the ascent route or the longer route via Glen Geusachan. The decision from all four was to take the longer route so we descended into Glen Geusachan, across a snow field and picked up an intermittent path into the Glen. Lower down the path became more obvious and we followed it into Glen Dee where we were sheltered from the constant glare of the sun. It was a long walk down Glen Dee and eventually we joined the track used earlier that day and followed it back to the White Bridge. From here it was still a bit of a walk back to the start as the sun set and a few stars appeared in the still cloudless sky. Eventually we reached the car park at the Linn of Dee after a long day out in the Cairngorm mountains on a very sunny and cloud free day.
Carn na Drochaide18 February 2007
It was a pleasant sunny morning with temperatures just below freezing point as I drove westwards to Braemar to meet a client to ascend this Corbett. Just outside the village a red squirrel darted across the road. There are so few of them nowadays with the grey taking over. The start of the walk was at the Linn of Quoich which is on the north side of the River Dee opposite the village of Braemar. However to reach this point it is necessary to drive along the road on the south side of the River Dee to the Linn of Dee and return east along the north side of the river. Due to the fine weather parking was a bit limited at the Linn of Quoich as the usual car park was closed for winter. We left the car in the 'winter car park', crossed the road bridge over the Quoich Water, entered the Caledonian Pinewood and followed the east bank of the river to the footbridge. This was followed by a slight climb up an embankment to a vehicle track which headed in a north-westerly direction through the heather moor. There were lots of grouse around and some clear views of snow capped peaks of the Cairngorms. It was definitely a day to be out on the hills. The track was followed for several kilometres and as height was gained gradually there were improving views of the Cairngorm mountains . Although some of the higher tops were covered in snow there were lots of bare patches with most of the previous weekend's snow having disappeared. Although not shown on the map the vehicle track continued up towards Carn na Criche before becoming a walker's path. It was at this point that we spotted a herd of deer which took off crossing some snow fields. We eventually reached Carn na Criche with views over to Beinn a'Bhuird and Ben Avon before we descended slightly and climbed to the summit of Carn na Drochaide. We spotted a couple of birds, either golden plovers or dotterels, but cannot decide which. There is one vote for each so without a casting vote I cannot be certain. Despite some high cloud and with very little wind we were able sit at Carn na Drochaide's cairn eating lunch while looking across to the Corbetts Carn Liath and Cullardoch. We were later joined by three guys whom we had met at the car park earlier. They had taken the steeper and more direct approach. After lunch we headed south where we could look down onto Braemar and the River Dee before descending through heather to the vehicle track east of Allanaquoich. It was then a short walk back to the car park. On my return home I had to make a slight diversion to near Logie Coldstone and here I saw another red squirrel so maybe they are not as rare as is thought.
Creag Bhalg31 December 2006
The forecast was for stormy weather for the final day of 2006 but it wasn't due to hit the Cairngorms area until around midday so I thought I could fit in a quick jaunt up this Graham. The starting point was the road on the north side of the River Dee just under two kilometres east of the Linn of Dee. There are few parking spaces at this point so walkers may wish to use the large Pay and Display car park at the Linn of Dee. The drive from Braemar to the starting point was a bit tricky as the road was very icy and had not been gritted. The mountain tops had a covering of snow but nothing to get excited about although more snow than there was on Christmas Day. I followed a vehicle track north-east through the Caledonian Pine Forest, named on the Ordnance Survey map as Doire Bhraghad. The track gave a rising traverse of the south west shoulder of Creag Bhalg and at the second junction I took a left turn and continued to a deer fence. The gate was locked but there was a stile which afforded access to the hillside. However the wooden steps were a bit icy. Just beyond the fence a track led across the heather clad hillside to the summit of Creag Bhalg. Here there were three cairns but the southerly one appeared to be the highest point. It was rather cold and windy on the summit and the high mountain tops were cloud covered. I took a few photographs before returning to the deer fence and stile. However I decided to take a longer return route and followed the path that led through Doire Bhraghad towards Glen Lui before doubling back on a lower path to the start. I was fortunate as the cloud was lowering and it started to rain just as I approached the end of the walk and the final jaunt for 2006.
Hills of Cromdale26 November 2006
The two Grahams on the Hills of Cromdale can be climbed from either Strath Spey to the west or Strath Avon in the east. I decided on the westerly approach as I was coming from Inverness. The start of the walk was near Wester Rynaballoch on the unclassified road from the Cromdale Hotel on the A95 passed the Haughs of Cromdale. Parking at the start is a bit restrictive but a bellmouth area to the south-west of Wester Rynaballoch is capable of taking a few cars if parked sensibly. I walked a short distance along the road before entering a field and following a wet and muddy vehicle track round a small wood. The track soon disappeared and I followed various animal tracks and picked my way through burnt back heather which made for easier walking at times. However higher up the terrain was a bit more awkward to traverse as it was very soft and had numerous hollows. I never found the paths shown on the map. I eventually reached the ridge between the two Grahams but the terrain was still a bit awkward until I got nearer the summit of Carn Eachie. Here the surface was covered in lichen but it was very wet and slippery with the amount of rain that had fallen recently and with the snow melt. It was a bright and pleasant day with some sunny periods, although the wind was a bit chilly at times. From Carn Eachie I headed to the trig point on the summit of Carn a'Ghille Chearr with views of windfarms, Strath Spey and the habitations of Cromdale and Grantown on Spey. I headed over to a nearby cairn where I had views of Ben Rinnes, Glenlivet and down Strath Avon towards the snow clad Cairngorms. After a short break I walked back over Carn Eachie and to the point where I joined the ridge. Here I saw two guys heading in the opposite direction taking a slightly different route obviously trying to avoid the awkward terrain at this point. I continued in a south-westerly direction trying to stay on the highest point of the ridge and eventually I came to a cairn. The plaque on the cairn indicated that it had been built by the people of Cromdale in 1902 to mark the Coronation of King Edward V11 and Queen Alexandria. From this cairn I stayed on the ridge, which in places had been churned up by all-terrain vehicles and headed for the summit of Creagan a'Chaise, where there was a short steeper section just before reaching the trig point. There was also a large cairn called, according to the plaque, The Jubilee Cairn, to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in 1887. I took shelter behind this large cairn and had a late lunch before returning to the Coronation Cairn and descending the north-west ridge. As I descended I met a family climbing towards the cairn. I was surprised with the amount of people I saw on these hills as that was eight in total and normally climbing some of the lower hills I never meet anyone. I had seen two walkers descending this ridge earlier in the day. The ridge eventually led to a vehicle track where I came across the Piper's Stone. Another bit of history here which I am thankful to Google for. It is related to the Battle of Cromdale in 1690 and a subsequent piping tune of the same name. I followed this vehicle track to the tarred road and it was only a short walk from there to my car as the sun set and the end of a fine historical day on the Hills of Cromdale.
Brown Cow Hill5 November 2006
On my previous visit to this hill I cycled and walked in from Delnabo near Tomintoul so on this occasion I wished to approach by a different route. Corgarff, another access point to this Corbett, was also nearer my home in Aberdeen so that was my planned starting point. Corgarff is located on the A939 Ballater to Tomintoul Road around a kilometre and a half west of its junction with the B973 road to Strathdon. I parked my car just east of Cock Bridge Farm and went through a gate and followed a path that headed over the west shoulder of Carn Mor where a buzzard was searching for a meal. The forest shown on the map no longer exists, well only a small section does west of the track on the opposite side of the valley. It had obviously been removed several years ago as there is very little evidence of its presence. I continued on the vehicle track, frequently disturbing grouse, as I climbed over Carn Meadhonach and found that the track actually continued onto Camock Hill. I did not follow it to this summit but headed over and crossed the Cock Burn. On route I came across a couple of standing stones, one was clearly marked 'M' and 'F' on either side. I can only presume that it previously marked the boundary between estates. There were a few mountain hares here which were starting to change colour to white, their winter camouflage, but it was too early as there was no snow. I climbed towards the unnamed 748 point. It had been fairly windy since I started out but on this climb the wind was very strong and made for difficult walking at times. The forecast had indicated the possibility of 100mph gusts on the nearby Cairngorms, so the strong wind wasn't unexpected, it was just an inconvenience in what was a pleasant approach route. I disturbed a few ptarmigan here who also had a problem with the wind as they flew off. From this un-named hill I climbed to the east top of Brown Cow Hill and onto its summit which was six metres higher. I had views towards Bennachie in the east, Lochnagar in the south, Ben Avon in the west and the wind farm near Inverness to the north. The return was down the east summit and its north-east ridge which was riddled with peat hags and pools and made for awkward walking. I was glad I hadn't decided to ascend by this ridge. Lower down a joined the vehicle track that came off of Carn Oighreag and followed it back to the Cock Burn near the farm and crossed over to the gate I used at the start of the walk.
Beinn Bhreac and Beinn a'Chaorainn3 November 2006
The starting point for this walk was the popular car park at the Linn of Dee, several miles west of Braemar. From here we followed the path through the woods which joined the vehicle track beside the Lui Water. This track was followed as far as the path leading to Clais Fhearnaig. I have climbed Beinn Bhreac several times from Glen Derry but have never found a satisfactory route. On this occasion I decided on a different approach so at the path leading to Clais Fhearnaig I followed it for about 500 metres before heading directly onto Meall an Lundain. This route followed the occasional animal path but was mainly through heather and vegetation, some of it fairly deep. We disturbed quite a few grouse as we headed uphill and a couple of roe deer. Eventually we reached Meall an Lundain, which was marked by a cairn and had some good views of the snow covered Beinn a'Bhuird. In fact it was quite a pleasant day with mainly light winds and reasonable visibility although further west there was some cloud hanging around the summits. The only downside to this route was a descent of around 80 metres but it was a gentle slope before the climb to the Munro, Beinn Bhreac. From Beinn Bhreac we descended to the east of Craig Derry and thereafter crossed the Moine Bhealach which was pitted with peat hags and small pools. However the ground was a bit firmer than normal due to recent frosts but wouldn't hold our weight. One of my clients disturbed a vole while crossing one of the peat hags. Once west of Moine Bhealach we left the peat hags and climbed the south ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn where we spotted mountain hares and ptarmigan, both changing to their white winter colour. On reaching the summit we had some lunch in the sun but there was a cold breeze. However the views were good and clear. Once we had a quick bite to eat we descended into Glen Derry and followed the path to Derry Lodge, watched by red deer on the slopes of Craig Derry.. From Derry Lodge the vehicle track led us back to the car park at the Linn of Dee. We saw a couple of roe deer, well it could have been the same two we disturbed in the morning, feeding close to the track. It was almost dark when we reached the car park and here a few hill walkers were setting off probably to stay in the bothy at Derry Lodge. They would have to join a couple of dogs who had already booked their space there.
Carn Ealasaid and Carn Mor27 August 2006
I was supposed to heading for Skye but the trip was cancelled due to strong winds so instead I went for a small jaunt to the hills around the Lecht Ski Centre on the A939 Cockbridge to Tomintoul road. I firstly set off to climb the easier of the two Corbetts, Carn Ealasaid on the west side of the A939. From the ski centre I followed a vehicle track onto the south-east ridge of Beinn a'Chruinnich and then crossed over numerous peat hags to the bealach between Beinn a'Chruinnich and Carn Ealasaid. It was then an easy ascent to the summit cairn of Carn Ealasaid where the nearby tors of Ben Avon stood out well. I returned to the Lecht Ski Centre by the upward route although I did stay higher up on the south-west ridge of Beinn a'Chruinnich to avoid some of the peat hags. Once back at the Ski Centre I climbed to Meikle Corr Riabhach and followed an old fence to the north ridge of Carn Liath again over or round several peat hags. From the north ridge of Carn Liath I descended slightly before climbing round the north side of the 800 metres knoll which was followed by an easy ascent to the summit trig point on Carn Mor. Here I had views of Bennachie, Lochnagar and some of the Cairngorm mountains. The return to the Ski Centre was by the outward route. Once away from the car park at the Ski Centre there was no human activity on the hills but there were lots of hares and grouse.
Cairngorms2 August 2006
We had an early start from the Linn of Dee car park and headed along the vehicle track to Derry Lodge. It was wet and windy and our intention was to climb the Munros, The Devil's Point, Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochan Uaine. On reaching Derry Lodge it was decided that due to the windy conditions we would head for Beinn Mheadhoin instead. From Derry Lodge we headed up Glen Derry. The old vehicle track had been removed and replaced with a path. It was still windy and wet and on arriving at the Glas Allt Mor we found it in spate. I searched for a suitable crossing point but it was too risky and also we had to return by this route. While there, a group of 10 Spanish and Belgians arrived on the opposite bank. They had little option but to cross the stream as they were headed for Braemar after an overnight stay at Hutchison Memorial Hut. A French couple whom I had spoken to earlier and recommended the Lairig Ghru route to Aviemore instead of the Lairig an Laoigh route arrived at the stream. My suggestion was obviously disregarded but they would have had a problem crossing the Fords of Avon in spate conditions. The French couple were assisted across the Glas Allt Mor by the Spaniards and Belgians. We returned to Derry Lodge and sought shelter from the weather, for lunch, in Bob Scott's bothy along with several others including the group headed for Braemar. The bothy was recently restored after a fire had destroyed it. After lunch we walked back along the vehicle track to the Linn of Dee. Beinn a'Bhuird and Ben Avon14 June 2006
There was light drizzle falling when I set off from Aberdeen to meet my clients in Braemar but it was a sunny morning when we met up and drove to Allanaquoich which was the starting point for this walk. We headed off on the east side of the Quoich Water but at the Linn of Quoich we crossed to the opposite using the footbridge. Unfortunately this is where a teenage girl from Aberdeen tragically died recently when she fell into the fast flowing water. We walked through the Caledonia Pine forest and spotted a few red squirrels. I was hoping to see a Capercaillie as this is the only location I have ever seen one, but I was out of luck. We crossed another stream before heading up the An Diollaid ridge. Here the old vehicle track has been replaced by a path and the vehicle track filled in. Lower down the scar of the vehicle track isn't so obvious but higher up it will take many years to conceal it. The path eventually took us to Beinn a'Bhuird's eastern corries which still held some snow. We crossed the plateau to Beinn a'Bhuird's summit cairn where we had lunch and discussed whether to continue to Ben Avon. My client's decision was to continue onto Ben Avon so we descended to The Sneck and climbed to the summit of Ben Avon. The final section involved an easy scramble onto the granite tor which marks the summit of Ben Avon. This was Munro number 250 for one of my clients. She only has 34 left to climb. We returned to The Sneck and headed down Glen Quoich. Lower down a new section of path has been constructed and in places the old path upgraded. This made for easy walking. We crossed the Quoich Water and followed it west where there were traces of a path. However we lost this path in some long heather but eventually picked up a new path beside the river. Here we came across warning signs regarding Schedule One protected birds together with some instructions. Eventually we reached the river we had crossed earlier that day, re-crossed it and followed the vehicle track back through the Caledonia Pine forest, crossed the Quoich Water once again and returned to our starting point at Allanaquoich.
Culardoch & Carn Liath10 - 11 June 2006
I set off from the pay and display car park beside Keiloch, which is run by Invercauld Estate, and headed along the signposted 'Right of Way' for Tomintoul. The initial section is tarred but after around 1.5 kilometres I left this tarred road and followed a vehicle track north through the forest. I was still on the 'Right of Way' from Braemar to Tomintoul. It was a pleasant walk through the woods and once beyond the forest I started looking for somewhere to camp. The area was a mass of heather and once beyond the Allt Cul I set up camp on an area of short heather that had obviously been burnt back a few years ago. I was also on a small rise in case of midges. I had a late meal as the sun set in the west and the moon came in to view in the south. The following morning I followed another vehicle track, which is shown as a path on the map, to the east side of Culardoch and climbed to its summit trig point. Visibility was a bit hazy and it was rather windy on the summit so I descended to the hut at the Bealach Dearg. Ongoing nearby was some form of soil research, possibly by the Macaulay Institute of Soil Research in Aberdeen. From the hut I climbed onto Carn Liath where the map showed two summits, about a kilometre apart, both being 862 metres. However having been to both summit tops it didn't appear to me that the north-westerly summit was as high. From the summit of Carn Liath I descended to the 'Right of Way', collected my tent and headed back through the forest and to the car park at Keiloch. It should be noted that the monies accrued from the car park fees at Keiloch appear to be used by Invercauld Estate on path maintenance.
Corryhabbie Hill5 April 2006
This hill lies to the south of Ben Rinnes (see below) and they can be combined to give a longer day in the Moray district of Scotland. The starting point for this hill was on the south side of the Dufftown to Tomintoul Road at Ellivreid Farm. The initial problem was the track we needed to reach the Hill of Achmore went through a field of sheep, which were in the process of lambing. The roadside fence looked like one touch and it would fall down so we entered the field by the gate and slowly walked through the flock trying not to disturb them too much. One sheep had just recently given birth so it was a worry being so close to them. Once through this field and beyond a copse of trees we headed onto the Hill of Achmore up over Little and Muckle Lapprach to the summit trig point of Corryhabbie Hill. The trig point had an usual metal cover obviously to save it from the elements. It was cold on the summit with a strong north wind blowing. Our return was by the upward route and to reach the car we walked round the perimeter of the field containing the sheep and crossed another fence to reach the road a short distance from the car.
Ben Rinnes5 April 2006
It was a cold morning when we set off from north of Knowe on an unclassified road just off the Dufftown to Tomintoul road to climb Ben Rinnes. We were not alone on this popular hill and we followed a vehicle track before it was replaced by an upgraded path that led all the way to the summit. A strong cold wind was blowing so walking was a bit hard going especially near the summit trig point. We did not linger at the top and returned by our upward route.
Geal Charn30 January 2006
It was a very cold and clear morning, with temperatures down to minus 9C, as we headed through Speyside to Dorback, south-east of Nethy Bridge. From the end of the public road, where there is very little parking available, we dropped down to the Dorback Burn, which was frozen in places. However the water level was low so it was easily crossed as long as we avoided the ice covered boulders. There were traces of paths leading to the derelict farm at Upper Dell where a good vehicle track was joined which took us across the heather clad terrain to north of Coire an Uillt Mhoir disturbing lots of grouse. We stopped en-route for a snack at a newly constructed hut for use by grouse shooters and beaters. It was well fitted out including a brush and plastic bin liners to collect the rubbish. I doubt if it will stay unlocked for long though. The climb up onto Geal Charn was initially through some deep heather but we subsequently found traces of a path which we followed to the summit. Higher up there was a covering of snow and it was a pleasant walk to the summit cairn. Hear we lingered in the sun and took in the fabulous views as far as Morven in Caithness, the mountains in the west, the Northern Cairngorms and the hills towards my home. Reluctantly we left the summit and headed along the south-east snow covered ridge. Again the walking was easy and pleasant but we had to leave the ridge and descend to a vehicle track. The descent was round frozen peat hags and knee deep heather but at least we were on a downhill section. On reaching the vehicle track we met the gamekeeper who was burning the heather and spoke to him for some time. The walk back to Dorback was along the recently upgraded track and past the boarded up Dorback Lodge.
Meall a'Bhuachaille26 January 2006
It was sunny and well below freezing when I set off from the end of the public road beside Glenmore Lodge through the Pass of Ryvoan to Ryvoan Bothy. There were several other walkers out on the track and in the vicinity of the bothy where I made a quick inspection and found the bothy to be very tidy. A path leads up the east side of Meall a'Bhuachaille to its summit. Path maintenance has commenced on the top and bottom sections of the path with the middle section very boggy. However I was fortunate that the ground was frozen and I just had to avoid some icy patches. Higher up there was a light covering of snow. I sat at the summit cairn eating lunch in a cool breeze watching the clouds roll over the sun lit Cairngorms. There are alternative routes of descent taking in the tops of Creagan Gorm and Craiggowrie but I opted to return by the upward route which was now totally in the sun.
Creag Mhor14 January 2006
It was a pleasant, sunny but chilly morning with clear skies when I set off from the car parking area beside Glenmore Lodge, the National Outdoor Centre for Scotland. There were several other cars already parked there with a few walkers preparing for their day out. The start of the walk was along vehicle tracks through the Pass of Ryvoan, passed the green lochan, An Lochan Uaine, to Bynack Stable. This refuge was removed a while back, I presume due to vandalism, as it was in a poor state of repair. It is a pity that some walkers are responsible for wanting damage which means that shelter for others, even if it is for a short break to get out of the wind and rain, is no longer available due to their irresponsible behaviour. However today the shelter wasn't required as it was still sunny and the temperature had risen slightly. I used the bridge to cross the River Nethy and followed the path that climbed up towards the Lairig an Laoigh. The first section of this path has been repaired but higher up it was a lot rougher and very icy in places. This path was followed beyond the point where walkers branch off to climb Bynack More and I descended to the Uisge Dubh Poll a'Choin, followed by a slight rise before a further descent to Glasath. I spotted two helicopters flying around and hovering above Beinn Mheadhoin and I presumed they were on a training mission. Once across the Glasath it was a short climb to the summit of Creag Mhor, which consists of some rocky tors. I had good views of the surrounding Cairngorm mountains, and was surprised how much snow had disappeared in a week from the high tops. There were even some areas high up devoid of any snow. There was a cold wind blowing around the summit so once I had taken a few photographs I set off for the return journey following the route of ascent. It was uneventful and despite the number of cars in the car park I saw and met very few walkers once beyond the green lochan.
Cnap Chaochain Aitinn8 January 2006
I wanted climb something new close to home but my options are getting increasingly limited having climbed most of the higher mountains in and around Aberdeenshire several times. I opted for the Graham, Cnap Chaochain Aitinn, which is located south of Tomintoul and around 75 minutes drive from Aberdeen. The starting point was the Delnabo road to the south of Tomintoul where there is an area set aside for car parking just outside the village. It was a sunny frosty morning as I set off down the vehicle track on the east side of the River Avon. The track undulates in places before joining the tarred road at Delavorar. This section of road was slippery in places with black ice and I was glad I had decided against taking the mountain bike. The next set of buildings in the Glen is at Birchfield where there is a set of large locked gates preventing vehicle access as this is the end of the public road. A side gate permits access on foot, or by bicycle and I continued down the tarred road for just over half a kilometre to a bridge over the River Avon. I crossed this hump-backed bridge, which has some rotten wooden planks and walked along vehicle tracks to the derelict buildings at Wester Gaulrig. From here I went through a gate in the deer fence, across a field and through a beautiful birch wood. This was followed by a stream crossing and a short steep climb onto the open moor land. The vehicle track was in an excellent state of repair and I followed it as it crossed over Carn an t-Sleibhe and on towards Geal Charn disturbing several grouse. The map indicates that the track turns to the east, which it does but there is another track, not shown on the map, which goes under the north face of Cnap Chaochan Aitinn and I presume down to the Burn of Loin. At the highest point on this vehicle track, another track led to the summit of Cnap Chaochan Aitinn where there was a small wind turbine and a telecommunication mast, which I presume was for communication within the Estate. There was a very cold wind blowing at the summit so after taking a few photographs I set off to retrace my steps. On the return route I disturbed the grouse again and managed to get a photograph of some stags before they spotted me and ran off. The descent route had the sun and windy on my back so I had a relaxed descent back to Strath Avon where it was sheltered from the wind. The frost and black ice on the tarred road still hadn't lifted entirely. I was on the rough vehicle track, close to the finish, before I met anyone else that day, some dog walkers and a mountain biker.
Beinn Mheadhoin19 November 2005
I met my clients at the Aviemore Youth Hostel and we headed to the Coire Cas car park on the Cairn Gorm, which is the main Ski Centre car park at a height of 620 metres. Although the mountains were snow covered there was insufficient snow for skiing so most of the cars in the car park at that time of the morning belonged to hill walkers or climbers. Once we had put together all our winter equipment, including crampons and ice axe, we set off up the vehicle track that eventually leads to the Ptarmigan Restaurant, which is located just below the summit of the Cairn Gorm. However we soon left this track, cut across and commenced the climb of the Fiacaill a'Choire Chais ridge. This was a reasonably easy ridge with good views into Coire an t-Sneachda. The clear skies of the early morning were now being replaced by high cloud. A couple of ptarmigan in their winter plumage were spotted but flew off before cameras could be produced. On reaching the summit cairn we headed down into Coire Raibeirt on the east side of the burn. Lower down it became steeper and this was where I anticipated a few problems with ice and snow. The descent became very slow trying to find the easiest and safest route and the lower we got the more prevalent the ice became. Some of my clients decided they would feel safer wearing crampons so they stopped and fitted them before heading down to the shore of Loch Avon. Here we took a coffee break but unfortunately those that donned crampons removed them and stored them away in their packs. After this short break we headed over to the burn and searched for a suitable crossing point but all the rocks were covered in thick ice. I broke ice off some of the rocks with my ice axe and crossed the burn. My clients preferred the use of their crampons for this short crossing. Once over the burn and with crampons stored away again we headed round the head of Loch Avon and over another stream, which was shallow and allowed us to ford it without breaking ice or using crampons. We then crossed a frozen boggy area before following the track which steepened near the top towards Loch Etchachan. On approaching the small lochan, prior to Loch Etchachan, we headed up Beinn Mheadhoin passed several tors to the main summit, which is a large granite tor. A couple of walkers who had passed us earlier had been to the top of the tor and despite it being coated with some ice and snow thought it was reasonably easy to climb without the use of crampons. One of my clients attempted the climb but slid back down. I climbed up the first section but the snow and ice and been rubbed to a shine by the previous walkers so I went back and put on crampons. The client who slid off the rock had already put on his crampons and he climbed to the summit and I later followed. The only real problem was on the descent where there was an awkward step in the rock. My three other clients decided against going to the top of the tor as did another couple of walkers who arrived a short time later, but they didn't have crampons. The question now is can my three clients claim they reached the summit of Beinn Mheadhoin when they didn't go to the highest point? The debate begins. We were now running late because of the delay in Coire Raibeirt so we had a quick lunch before descending back to the head of Loch Avon. Here we took a slight diversion to visit the Shelter Stone which is a large boulder and can be used as a howff for walkers and climbers. We thereafter headed round the head of Loch Avon and commenced a rising traverse towards the stream flowing down Coire Raibeirt. I wanted to avoid the crossing of this stream and the icy re-ascent of the path and had earlier looked at an alternative route on the west side of the stream and with the agreement of my clients we headed uphill through snow covered heather in the semi-dark. Once clear of the steep section we headed up the west side of the stream as it became dark and later had to switch on our head torches which we had removed from our packs earlier. Higher up the stream became narrow and was more boggy and some of my clients became a bit concerned as to their whereabouts. For one this was a first for using her head torch. My clients decided to use a GPS and work out where they were and their direction of travel which gave them a bit more confidence especially as it was totally dark with some low cloud. We eventually reached the top of Fiacaill a'Choire Chais and headed down this ridge. Some were still concerned as they couldn't see the lights of Aviemore but this was due to the low cloud. However a short time later we came out of the cloud and the lights they were looking for were spotted and they were all happy again, I think. We eventually reached the vehicle track used on the ascent route and headed to the car park in Coire Cas and the end of an exciting day in the Cairngorms.
Morven13 November 2005
It was a lovely and sunny morning in Aberdeen so I headed off to Morven, a Corbett above, Ballater in Deeside. I had previously climbed this hill from the Pass of Ballater so I opted for a different approach, although I cannot recall the first ascent as it was so long ago. I drove to the Groddie road west of Logie Coldstone and parked my car beside a small group of trees before walking along an old grass track to the derelict building at Balhennie. Once through a couple of gates I was on the open hillside and followed traces of a path which involved a steady climb through the heather. Although sunny it was cold in the wind but I had good views over the Aberdeenshire countryside and across to some of the lower hills that I have climbed. There were a number of other walkers out on this route obviously enjoying a pleasant walk on a reasonably clear and dry day. Once higher up old fence posts would assist route finding in a poor conditions. There were now several worn paths winding there way up the hillside which was white from a thin covering of snow. The cairn and trig point were subsequently reached with views of Mount Keen, Lock Muick which was sparking in the sunlight and nearby Lochnagar which had some cloud hanging around the ridge. To the west the snow capped mountains of the Cairngorms were impressive. It was a bit too cold to eat lunch on the summit, so I returned by my ascent route before finding a more sheltered area overlooking the Aberdeenshire countryside. However as I predicted I would only get about ten minutes of sun before it disappeared behind the hill and it became distinctively colder. I therefore continued by journey back to the start, warming up as I did so. Despite the cold wind it was an enjoyable walk and at least for a change it stayed dry.
Sgor Mor29 October 2005
I climbed this Corbett in a clockwise direction around four years ago and on this occasion decided to do it in the opposite direction. I also decided to approach it from the east as the ascent from the south-east is boulder strewn. I left my car in the Linn of Dee car park and walked through the forest and into Glen Lui. Before the crags at Creag an Diuchd I left the vehicle track and headed uphill through long heather, trying to select any easier sections of grass. I disturbed a group of six stags who were together so the rut must be over as they were all friends again. Further up there were some roe deer which ran off in various directions. Once onto more level ground the heather was shorter and the walking easier as I viewed my first hill of the day, Sgor Dubh. It was an easy walk to the summit trig point where I had views of Glens Derry and Luibeg. Sgor Dubh and Sgor Mor are normally only climbed by those Corbett bagging but the hills are regularly seen by those walking the Lairig Ghru from Braemar to Aviemore. After a short descent from Sgor Dubh it was a steady climb towards Sgor Mor. I had views up the Lairig Ghru and Glen Geusachan but the Cairngorm mountains were covered in cloud. This would be an ideal location on a clear day to view these mountains. On the final climb to the summit of Sgor Mor the cloud blew in and covered the summit so I just touched the cairn and headed down its south ridge disturbing some more deer. Eventually I reached the path on the east side of the River Dee and headed for the White Bridge, where I had a late lunch. I heard the roar of a stag to the south so one fellow doesn't think the rut is over just yet. It started to rain and the wind increased as I headed east along the vehicle track and back to the car park at the Linn of Dee.
Beinn a'Bhuird24 July 2005
I met a new client outside the Youth Hostel in Braemar before we headed to the start of the day's walk at Linn of Quoich. As is the case with several of the Munros in the Cairngorms there is a long walk in with the obvious long walk out, so we needed an early start. The car park at the Linn of Quoich was already busy with several parked cars and mobile homes. However the majority of the car occupants were either camped at the Linn of Quoich or further up the Glen. We headed up the east side of the Quoich Water to the footbridge at The Punch Bowl, where we crossed the river and reached the track that runs through the Caledonian Forest. Many of the trees are dead due to being blown down over many years but hopefully with the ownership of the land in the hands of the National Trust for Scotland there will be some natural regeneration of the forest. After over an hour's walking we came to the river crossing but this wasn't a problem as the water level was very low. Once on the opposite side we had a meal break before heading through another section of forest to the start of the new path. The original track, which headed up onto the plateau, has been dug up and replaced with a path. Lower down the vegetation is filling in but higher up the bare ugly scar is still very visible. Hopefully over the years it will become less visible. Initially it was very warm as we commenced this climb with cloud swirling round the plateau, but higher up it was rather cold in the wind which had blown the cloud clear of the summit. On reaching the cliffs above the Dubh Lochan we had good views of the eastern corries of Beinn a'Bhuird before heading to the North Top which is the highest point on the plateau. We then sat above Coire nan Clach and had lunch looking over to Ben Avon, the highest tor was still in the cloud. However during lunch the cloud cleared from this summit as well. The client had thought about including Ben Avon in this walk but it is a very long day and he decided to take in the South Top of Beinn a'Bhuird instead. We followed the cliff edge south and had very clear views of part of Braeriach, Sgor an Lochan Uaine and Cairn Toul. As we continued south the views changed to include The Devils Point, Monadh Mor and Beinn Bhrotain. In the foreground was Ben Macdui which still held patches of snow, Beinn Mheadhoin and Derry Cairngorm. The path from the Hutchison Memorial Hut up to Loch Etchachan was very obvious as was part of the Loch. On reaching the cliffs above Coire na Ciche we headed to the summit of the South Top before heading back towards the plateau path. It was by this time fairly warm and sunny and we commenced the long walk back to the start. This was uneventful although we did spot a red squirrel in one of the Caledonian Pine Tress but it wouldn't stay still long enough to take a photograph. At the end of the day I think the client was glad he hadn't included Ben Avon in what was a longish walk.
Braeriach25 June 2005This was the third attempt to climb this Munro with Shona and Laila. On the first occasion we only reached the Sron na Lairige ridge when we had to abandon the attempt due to gale force winds. On the second occasion the walk was cancelled again due to gale force winds and on this occasion snow. I met these clients, and another lady Sue, in the Sugar Bowl car park on the access road to the Coire Cas Ski Centre. We could have done with some of the wind that thwarted us on the previous occasions as the midges were out and attacking us. We set off on the path to the Chalamain Gap, which has been upgraded in places. On reaching the boulders, which slowed us down, as we searched for the best route over them, we again encountered the midges which were obviously waiting for their breakfast of blood from the walkers heading through the gap. Once through the gap we descended into the Lairig Ghru and followed a newly constructed path onto the Sron na Lairige ridge. A reasonably steady climb followed with some easier sections but as we gained height we were able to see the summits of Cairn Gorm and Ben Macdui, on the opposite side of the Lairig Ghru. Higher up we spotted a Dotterel before heading to the summit of Sron na Lairige. Here we came across a large heard of reindeer and their young. One came up to Sue and sniffed her hand to ascertain if she had any food. I presume they were there to avoid the midges lower down. From the summit of Sron na Lairige we descended slightly before the climb to the east ridge of Braeriach and along the top of the cliffs above Coire Bhrochain. The summit was easily reached with some great views of Sgorr Gaoith, Cairn Toul and the Lairig Ghru and further south to the cloud covered Lochnagar. To the east we had views beyond Ben Macdui to the tors on Beinn Mheadhoin. We had our lunch here taking in these views and down into the Garbh Coire. Laila had a butterfly join her on the summit cairn and before we left we were entertained by a Snow Bunting perched on the highest point of the cairn singing loudly. It was rather entertaining seeing this bird which appeared to have little fear of our presence. The return was by the route of ascent but we avoided the summit of Sron na Lairige and took the path round its east side. The weather was pleasant with some sunny periods and an occasional slight breeze. At the Lairig Ghru we were met by stewards who were checking off walkers on the annual Lairig Ghru charity walk from Braemar to Aviemore. The crossing of the Chalamain Gap, although still awkward wasn't as bad as earlier as there was a slight breeze which prevented the midges getting another blood meal. However they were still frequenting the car park so we didn't hang about before heading home at the end of a successful day.
Winter in May7 - 8 May 2005My client booked this walk early in the year as he wished to experience walking in the Cairngorms in summer conditions. He got more than he bargained for. On the first day we arrived in the Coire Cas car park and it was snowing and there was evidence that higher up the mountains were covered in the white stuff. What a difference from early April (see below) when there wasn't even enough snow to ski on. We set off from this car park and took the path that passes to the west of Cairn Lochan. Shortly thereafter we crossed the snow line and into the cloud. The path was difficult to follow and higher up we lost it completely for a while as we crossed a large expanse of fresh snow. It was very windy higher up and we had a brief view of the snow clad Sron na Lairige ridge of Braeriach before the next snow shower arrived. As we approached the two highest lochans in Britain, which were very difficult to see, the path was once again lost as we also encountered sections of ice where my client had difficulty staying upright as he had brought with him north of the border his summer boots. We were fortunate that the strong northerly wind was on our backs as was the snow and hail. The summit of Ben Macdui was eventually reached in poor conditions and some photographs were taken, without any views. We then had something to eat sheltered behind the large cairn. While seated there, out of the cloud appeared, not the old grey man of Macdui as he was already there, but a couple who had come up from the Linn of Dee side. It appeared from our conversation with them that the conditions were better on the south side of the mountain. We set off back to the lochans searching for the path and our boot prints but they had been filled in by the blowing snow. On this descent we met a chap who was backpacking. He had been camping overnight in the Lairig Ghru after a traverse over Cairn Toul and Braeriach. Walking into the snow, hail and wind was very difficult especially if the hail hit any exposed skin. Once again my client had problems staying upright on sections of ice. On reaching the lochans we picked up the path below Cairn Lochan. However the winter snow soon obliterated the path as did the fresh snow and ice. Conditions deteriorated at times to nil visibility as we fought against the wind, snow, hail and spin drift, so we had to stop several times to ensure we were on the correct bearing. We reached Stob Coire an t-Sneachda and commenced the descent to its bealach with the Cairn Gorm. As we did so the cloud suddenly cleared and we had views of the surrounding mountains and over as far as Lochnagar. However this only lasted long enough for my client to take some photographs before it closed in again and we were blasted by a hail storm. In the hail and snow we climbed to the summit of Cairn Gorm where we were able to shelter behind the weather station for a very late lunch. The descent still in poor visibility took us via the funicular's top station and down to the mid station where we ventured out of the cloud and the short walk back to the Coire Cas car park. The next day we decided on Bynack More as my client's next Munro. The weather forecast was for the weather to be similar to the previous day but with the wind speed slightly higher. The walk from Glenmore Lodge to A'n Lochan Uaine, the green lochan, was fairly pleasant despite the rain shower. It was very sheltered and we made good progress to this lochan and onto Bynack Stable where the shelter, they threatened to demolish, has in fact now gone. After a short break we commenced the climb up the Lairig an Laoigh path to its highest point and as we gained height the wind became stronger. Once on the plateau we reached the snow line and the first of several snow and hail showers. On gaining the foot of the north ridge of Bynack More we commenced the climb through drifting snow and strong wind that brought us to a halt several times. On reaching the leveller section of the ridge the walking was fairly difficult as here we were more exposed to the wind. However we struggled onto the summit cairn where my client had his usual photo shoot of himself in the cloud. We tried to have some lunch sheltered behind the cairn but the spin drift was getting everywhere and I gave up eating my snow coated sandwiches. The plan had been to continue over A'Choinneach and down towards Loch Avon but due to the time the ascent had taken, my client opted for the route of ascent which was harder as we were now face into the snow, hail and wind. We worked our way down to the plateau and out of the cloud. We were searching for somewhere to shelter from the wind to continue with our lunch but we didn't get out of the wind until the area beside where Bynack Stable previously stood. Once we had finished lunch we fo |
