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Section 0 Galloway and Border Hills
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Section 12 Glen Cannich to Glen Carron Mountains
Section 12 - This section refers to the hills and mountains from Glen Cannich to Glen Carron including the remote mountains of Loch Mullardoch and Loch Monar. They cover the Corbetts, Grahams and Munros that I have climbed in this area since 2003.
Index to Hills in this SectionSguman Coinntich14 September 2008
A few days before this walk I contacted Inverinate Estate regarding stalking restrictions as we wanted to climb this Corbett in conjunction with the Corbetts, Aonach Buidhe and Faochaig. However the person at the Estate Office was rather unhelpful and in fact stated that they would have three shooting parties out, one on each of these mountains, despite the fact that the Estate is massive and contains many more mountain and stalking areas. On questioning him further he did relent a bit saying I could contact the stalker to confirm where they would be shooting on 15 September. He blamed the Deer Commission for the cull of stags when it is more likely paying guests who they are catering for. I decided to alter our plans and climb Sguman Coinntich on its own the previous day as it was a Sunday when there was no stalking. We left the A87, just west of Dornie and drove up the single track road signposted Sallachy and Killilan. Just beyond its junction with the road to Camas-luinie there was a public car park and warning signs about a working estate and high powered rifles. It was bright with some high cloud, well above the summits, when we set off from the car park and walked along the road to the buildings at Killilan. Just before the bridge over the Allt a’Choir Mhoir we followed its north bank where there were traces of a path through bracken, some of which was almost six feet in height. Higher up we came to the estate road that headed up the glen towards the Bealach Mhic Bheathain. At the Coire Mor we left this estate road, crossed the Allt a’Choire Mhoir, and some wet ground before the going became steeper and drier. We worked our way through some rocks before reaching the summit cairn and trig point, which was badly eroded and was virtually only standing on metal stilts. There were views of the Rum and Skye Cuillin, Plockton, Lurg Mhor, Faochaig, Aonach Buidhe, the Kintail and Knoydart mountains and Beinn Sgritheall. Rather than descend by our upward route we decided to head south-east towards the Allt a’Ghlas-choire through obvious deer grazing areas and a large herd ran off. The stags may be fortunate to miss the following day’s cull, if they were actually shooting in that area as mentioned earlier. Lower down we came to the stalker’s path and followed it to the tarred road in Glen Elchaig, east of Faddoch. It was then a walk along the tarred road to Killilan, where it started to rain but we managed to reach the car without getting soaked.
Creag Dubh Mhor and Beinn Dronaig20 – 21 July 2008
I had visited Bendronaig Bothy on a couple of occasions en-route to or from Lurg Mhor and on my first ascent of Beinn Dronaig. It is owned and maintained by Attadale Estate and I always considered it to be an excellent place for a rest and a brew. I also thought it would make an ideal stopover if I was ever in the area again. A plan was hatched as I needed to make a second ascent of Beinn Dronaig and I didn’t fancy the long cycle from Attadale on estate tracks, which involved a fair bit of climbing in and out. I decided on an approach from Achintee on the A890 Lochcarron to Kyle of Lochalsh Road, just south-west of the hamlet of Strathcarron. For those who prefer public transport the Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh train stops at Strathcarron. On checking the map I found that I could include the Graham, Creag Dubh Mhor which meant I didn’t have to walk in and out by the same path. Achintee itself is just off the main road and consists of a few houses. Signs mark the route to the ‘Hill Paths’ and after a bit of searching I found a suitable overnight parking spot beside the electric sub-station. This was on the signposted route so I only had a few yards to walk before I passed through a wicket gate where there was another signpost. I took the one marked ‘Bearneas Bothy’ which passed through a fairly new plantation. This led to a stile and a stream, which I crossed. Thereafter the path became fairly indistinct due to the long vegetation, including bracken. However at the start I had viewed the path’s location and was soon able to re-join it. Thereafter it was fairly obvious. The first destination of the day, the rather craggy Creag Dubh Mhor, could be seen from well down the path. I soon reached the River Taodail and followed its south bank. Further along I took the left fork which continued above this river before following tributaries to the south that led to a couple of waterfalls. Here I saw some deer hinds and a calf. The path was followed, below the cliffs of Creag Dubh Mhor, to its bealach with its easterly 544 summit. I could now see Beinn Droniag, Bidean a’Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhor. Initially it was an easy climb as I headed towards the summit of Creag Dubh Mhor but it later it became quite steep. However I was soon on the summit of this craggy mountain with views as already described, of the Torridon Mountains and the Island of Eigg. The forecast had been for a reasonable day but unfortunately it wasn’t correct. I had brief showers and there was a cold wind blowing. It was time for lunch so I found some shelter looking at the fairly complex mountain and the trig point of Carn Geuradainn. Once fed, I descended to the triple lochans, at the head of Coire Odhar, and made the short ascent to Carn Geuradainn. The trig point collectors hadn’t been here yet as its metal plate was still intact. I descended south-east over relatively easy terrain which was obviously a favourite feeding area for hinds and stags, some of whom ran off, others just continued to eat. A mountain hare ran off. The path from Bealach Alltan Ruairidh was soon reached and I followed it down to the vehicle track from Attadale, although the latter stages the path disappeared in boggy grasses. The track was followed to the Iron Bridge over the Uisge Dubh and onto Bendroniag Bothy where I was welcomed by the laird, who had been out for a Sunday drive with friends. A lengthy rest and brew was the order of the day before setting off for Beinn Dronaig. It was a steady climb, seeking the easiest route, onto the west ridge, then an undulating walk along this ridge to its summit. Here again it was cold and windy but I had views of the Glen Elchaig hills, An Socach, An Riabhachan, Loch Morar, and the Islands of Eigg, Rum and Skye. The descent route north-west was rather steep and rocky to the vehicle track well below Coire na Sorna. Just short of the track I came across some resting hinds and a calf but unfortunately they spotted me as well and were up and running very quickly. Once on the vehicle track it was a short walk back to Bendronaig Bothy for an overnight stop. The only downside on a very well kept bothy, with inside loo, was that on lighting the fire the bothy filled with smoke so I gave the idea of a fire a miss. Early the next morning I retraced my steps along the vehicle track towards Attadale and then the path, which was still difficult to find in the lower stretches even knowing its location, to the Bealach Alltan Ruairidh. The path passed above Lochan Fuara and it was a lovely sunny morning and the fish were jumping. The path continued passed several other lochans before finally descending to Achinte and the end of interesting backpack.
previous ascent of Beinn Droniag
Carn Gorm14 June 2008
The Graham, Carn Gorm, is located between Glens Cannich and Strathfarrar and although there is a path shown on the map rising out of Glen Strathfarrar there is the problem of access to this glen via the locked gate at Inchmore. However I decided to climb this hill from Glen Cannich, which is accessed from the village of Cannich on the A831. The River Cannich flows through Loch Craskie and just west of the loch there is a small concrete road bridge leading to the houses at Craskie. A small parking area can be found just east of this bridge. I crossed the bridge, by-passed the houses to the east by walking through a field and following the line of the forest to the north of the dwellings. The going beyond here was quite awkward with long heather and bracken to wade through but the occasional animal tracks helped. On this ascent I encountered the first rain shower of the day. Once beyond the forest line I came to a fence, which wasn’t quite as high as the normal deer fence I am used to, but it wasn’t a problem to cross as some of the wire strands were broken. Another section of rough vegetation was crossed before things improved and the going became quite pleasant as I headed for the 638 point following some grassy rakes. A dotterel was disturbed by my presence, in fact I saw three dotterel on this walk. On the ascent of the 638 point I had views up Glen Cannich to Loch Mullardoch and the nearby Corbett Beinn a’Bha’ach Ard. The next section involved a descent to the north side of Loch Coir’an Uillt Ghiubhais before the final ascent to the summit cairn of Carn Gorm where there was a cold wind blowing. It felt closer to winter than mid-summer. I found some shelter for a break before setting off for the return by the route of ascent although I by-passed the 638 Point to the north thus avoiding some re-ascent. The bogy areas were still relatively dry despite a week of rain showers so the going was fine except the final section through the long heather and fresh bracken mentioned earlier.
An Sidhean8 May 2008
The Corbett An Sidhean is located on the north side of Loch Monar. However access to this remote mountain is greatly assisted by the private road up Glen Strathfarrar, although times of access are restricted by a locked gate at Inchmore. Details can be obtained from The Mountaineering Council of Scotland. Inchmore is just off the A831 Beauly to Cannich road. It is requested that vehicles are not driven as far as Monar Lodge but parked beside the dam. It was a short walk to the Lodge and a signposted route around the property. The path headed along the shore of Loch Monar, climbed through a gully before returning to near the shore line. It then crossed the Allt a’Choire Dhomhain and the Allt na Cois by footbridges. During this walk we had great views down the loch to Lurg Mhor. Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich was a bit hazy as were the Glen Cannich Munros. The snow filled gullies of Maoile Lunndaidh were very prominent. Beyond the Allt na Cois another footpath climbed north then north-west before it swung round to the north-east as it gained height and became indistinct. At that point we headed onto the Mullach a’Gharbh-leathaid ridge. Initially this was a steady climb before the gradient eased. The summit was eventually reached with additional views of Moruisg, the Strathconnon Corbetts and the hazy Fannaichs. It had been a warm and sunny ascent so the breeze, while seated at the summit eating lunch, was welcome. Another couple arrived at the summit before our departure to the bealach at the head of Gleann Dubh. Once beyond this point we crossed the shoulder of Meall Dubh na Caoidhe before descending to the path on the west side of the Allt a’Choire Dhomhainn. We followed this path to Loch Monar and then returned to the start by the outward route.
Carn na Coinnich9 February 2008
The BBC mountain forecast the previous evening indicated that it was to be very windy, around 70 miles per hour with gusts as much as 100 miles per hour on the higher peaks. In these circumstances the chances of reaching the summit of this Graham was fairly remote. However the forecast in the morning gave the wind speed as 40 – 50 miles per hour with no mention of gusts so things were looking up. The start of the walk was in Strathconnon which is reached from Marybank on the A832, west of Beauly. An unclassified, single track road runs along the south side of the River Connon to Loch Achonachie, Loch Meig and then the River Meig. Just before the bridge over the River Meig an estate road continues along the south side of the River with a large gate. Signs indicate that the road is private although it does say that walkers are welcome. There was a parking area beside the gate. I walked west along the estate road for over a kilometre and just before Home Farm Cottage took the vehicle track which headed south up the side of a forest. Beyond the forest and at a junction of tracks stags, which were being fed by the estate with hay or silage, ran off up the hillside. The vehicle track continued across the open hillside before it followed the side of a stream. This track was shown on the map as a path but had obviously been upgraded to allow stalkers to gain access to the hills by vehicle rather than on foot. Crossing the stream was a bit awkward due to the recent rain and snow melt. There were good views back across Strathconnon to Meallan nan Uan and Sgurr a’Mhuilinn. Beyond that were the Achnashellach mountains where a search was on going for a missing climber. Unfortunately at lunch time that day he was found dead near Sgorr Ruadh. I disturbed more deer as I headed up the track which was in reasonable condition until I came to a steeper section where there was a bit of erosion. The gradient eased and the track became wet in places. I was being watched by some deer on Carn na Coinnich's north ridge, their head, ears or antlers protruded above the sky-line. At 600 metres I left the track and crossed some peat bog before climbing onto the north ridge of Carn na Coinnich where an All Terrain Vehicle track went to within metres of the rocky summit with its trig point. It was windy on the summit but nothing near the 50 miles per hour forecast. I had views down to the Orrin Reservoir, the cloud topped Strathfarrar Munros and west to Bac an Eich, An Sidhean and Maoile Lunndaidh. After a coffee break I headed across peat hags, some filled with snow, to the south side of Loch Gruamach and descended north-west towards the Allt Baile na Creige across some wet and slippery vegetation. I was hoping to find the path shown on my map but even looking down into the glen I couldn’t see it. I followed the stream downhill until it entered a gorge. Occasionally I thought I had found the path but it appeared to be deer tracks. I am fairly certain that the path does not exist. Lower down I had to regain some height to avoid the gorge before descending into the forest where there was a track. I followed this track which took me to the south side of the River Meig and thereafter to Dalbreac Lodge, Home Farm Cottage and back to the start where I spoke to a local couple, the only people I met all day.
Beinn na Muice29 October 2007
It was another sunny morning in Inverness with a light covering of snow on the top of Ben Wyvis. I was en-route to Glen Strathfarrar to climb the Graham, Beinn na Muice. Access to Glen Strathfarrar is from the A831 Beauly to Cannich Road at Struy Bridge. A locked gate prevents access to the Glen but a gatekeeper, who resides in the adjoining cottage at Inchmore, is employed between April and the end of October to permit access during certain days and times. Once I had received my permit and accessed the Glen I headed west with views of snow topped mountains. I parked just off the Glen road where it crossed the Allt Toll a’Mhuic and walked up the vehicle track on the west side of this stream. After around a kilometre I left the track and commenced the ascent of Beinn na Muice. The going was fairly steep over a mixture of grasses and heather avoiding some rocky outcrops with views over to the snow capped Sgurr na Lapaich and Carn nan Gobhar. During this ascent I disturbed a couple of deer. Higher up, I had views to the north of Carn an Daimh Bhain and Sgurr na Muice, During this ascent route I was sheltered from the westerly wind and this continued as I headed along the east ridge of Beinn na Muice as there was a gully on the north side running parallel to the ridge. I later climbed onto the rocky ridge and followed it to the small summit cairn with views west to Loch Monar, Lurg Mhor, Bidean an Eoin Deirg and the snow covered Maoile Lunndaidh. From the summit of Beinn na Muice I continued west along its fine west ridge with improving views of Loch Monar although shower clouds were drifting across its west end. At the end of the ridge, with views down to Monar Lodge, I commenced the descent towards the road east of Monar Dam. This descent was fairly steep and quite tricky as the vegetation was rather wet and slippery with lots of rocky outcrops to avoid. A couple of stags, who were now friends again after the rut, spotted me and ran off. It took me a while to get down onto the Glen Road which was followed by an easy and pleasant walk of around 1.5 kilometres east to my starting point and the end of a short day on a fine wee hill.
Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhor8 September 2007
Frances had attempted these two Munros on a previous occasion staying overnight at Bendronaig Bothy. However a situation arose that they were unable to climb these mountains. Attadale Estate own the bothy and ensure that it is well maintained and even supply some wood. There is also an indoor loo which requires the cistern to be filled with a bucket of water from the nearby stream. It is probably one of the best bothies in Scotland. I was booked by Frances, who had only four Munros left to climb, including these two. She wished to tackle them from Bendronaig Bothy as she had transport arranged. For me this would be a new ascent route to Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich although I had been to Bendronaig Bothy before when I climbed the Corbett Beinn Dronaig. We set off from the bothy and walked along the vehicle track towards Coire na Sorna but soon left the track and climbed over rough and wet ground towards the west ridge of Sail Riabhach. The forecast was for the unsettled weather to continue so it wasn’t a surprise when we entered the cloud base and later had to don waterproof clothing due to the light drizzle. The west ridge was reached and we walked to the summit of Sail Riabhach and onto the south-east side of Bidean a’Choire Sheasgaich where we joined the path that led from its bealach with Lurg Mhor. We followed this path to the summit cairn of Bidean a’Choire Sheasgaich. As was the case in my previous visit in July there were no views so we returned along the path and descended to the bealach with Lurg Mhor. The weather conditions were deteriorating with rain and wind as we ascended Lurg Mhor. At the summit we sought some shelter behind the cairn for lunch. Afterwards we returned to the bealach and commenced our descent crossing numerous small streams and eventually cleared the cloud base before reaching the vehicle track at the west end of Loch Calvie. My map showed it as a path but this is incorrect. The track was followed to Coire na Sorna and onto Bendronaig Bothy where we took another break. Thereafter we commenced the long return route which involved following a vehicle track that climbed over another bealach before the long descent to the car park at the entrance to Attadale Estate on the A890 Strathcarron to Kyle of Lochalsh Road.
Bidein a'Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mor15 – 16 July 2007
We met in Inverness on the afternoon of the 15 July and drove to Craig near Achnashellach where we parked in the car park within the forest on the north side of the A890 Achnasheen to Lochcarron Road. The car park had recently been reduced in size and a height barrier installed at the entrance. We left the car park, crossed the main road and the railway line and followed the vehicle track east to the bridge over the River Carron. At the split in the track we took the one heading west through the forest and along the south bank of the River. After over three kilometres we reached the signposted path for Bearneas. The path climbed through the forest and in places long grass on either side of it hid deep trenches. Beyond the forest the path, which was boggy in places, wound its way uphill above Coire Leiridh, where we met a couple descending from the Corbett, Sgurr na Feartaig. The path led to a small bealach south of Carn Mor and then through some rocks to a wide area, which without the path would require some careful navigation. The path descended the side of a stream and some old fence posts to Bearneas Bothy. The bothy, which was situated in an idyllic location, was tidy and larger than expected but I had carried my tent so I pitched it nearby while my clients, Kay and Norman set up in the bothy. We cooked our meal and sat outside in the sun enjoying the weather conditions and the remoteness of the location, until the light breeze disappeared and a few midges decided to join us. The rest of the evening was spent in the bothy chatting and drinking tea and coffee. I was awake early and with the tent door open I watched the clouds change colour to orange as the sun rose. There was no problem from the midges as there was a breeze blowing but the higher hills were cloud covered. After an early breakfast we set off from the bothy and crossed the Abhainn Bhearnais by a few stones I had placed the previous evening. Beyond that the ground was fairly boggy and sections were impossible to cross and required slight deviations. Once the ground started to rise it was a bit drier underfoot. A stream was reached and a suitable crossing point found as it ran through a small gorge. We aimed for a tributary of the stream we had just crossed and followed it into Coire Seasgach and into the cloud. We spotted several deer in the area. In the Coire it was very atmospheric with the mist and rock making everything outsized. We followed the stream, which changed direction several times, until we reached a small lochan. Well the lochan was actually quite difficult to see in the thick cloud. Just beyond the lochan we came across a path that led along a narrowing and rocky ridge to the summit of Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich where it was fairly windy. There was no advantage remaining at the summit so we continued on the path, which disappeared at times to the bealach with Lurg Mhor where it was very windy and a few minutes later the rain that was to last the rest of the day started. The ascent of Lurg Mhor commenced and before ten in the morning we had reached the summit of our second Munro of the day. Lurg Mhor was in fact Kay’s final mainland Munro while it was Norman’s one hundred and ninety seventh. The return to Bearneas Bothy was by the route of ascent. The cloud base hadn’t changed but the level of the streams had risen. Once back at the bothy we had some lunch and hot drinks before packing our overnight gear. Unfortunately I should have taken my tent down in the morning as it was now very wet. We were about to leave the bothy when a chap walking from Cape Wrath arrived so we spoke to him for a few minutes. He was the only person we saw that day. After around an hour at the bothy we left to return to Craig by the route used the previous day but the path was very wet in places as the rain continued to fall. Kay plans to climb Sgurr nan Gillean next which will leave her with a visit to Mull to complete her Munros. Norman’s next walk was an ascent of the two Munros of the Aonach Eagach.
Mullardoch Munros23 June 2007
This walk involved climbing the four Munros on the north side of Loch Mullardoch and was for the benefit of Tony who had only five Munros left to climb and Kay who had only four mainland Munros to do. Unfortunately for Kay she had already climbed Sgurr na Lapaich and Carn nan Gobhar. Access to these mountains was along the unclassified single track road from Cannich along Glen Cannich to the dam at the east end of Loch Mullardoch. There was ample off-road parking just before the dam. Tony had arranged for Carl the boatman to take us along the Loch to West Benula, which is located at the junction of the streams Allt Coire a’Mhaim and the Allt Socrach. Carl was a bit concerned about the level of the loch as in ten years he had never seen it so low. Apparently Hydro Electric was reducing the level to carry out repairs to a tunnel. On leaving the boat at West Benula, in the rain, the first hurdle was to cross the soft sandy soil, normally under water, before passing the side of the remote West Benula Lodge. I think it is possible to rent this Lodge but there is no access to it other than on foot or by boat. Once beyond the Lodge we walked up the path on the north side of the Allt Coire a’Mhaim, as the first shower of the day ceased. There were a number of cattle grazing near the Allt Socrach so it is good to see that some Estates are using hill ground for these beasts which were mainly cleared from the Highlands in the late eighteenth century to be replaced by sheep. Now the sheep have also gone so that Estates can concentrate on deer. The only downside from the cattle is the deep holes they make on the paths with their hooves. After a couple of kilometres the path disappeared and we crossed the stream, then some peat and boggy ground to the south-east ridge of An Socach. This was followed by a steady climb into the cloud with the corrie edge forcing us further west until we eventually reached the summit trig point where we took our first break. However it was a bit cold on the summit so we didn’t stay long before we headed down An Socach’s east ridge, which changed direction several times and in places dropped steeply. Once at the low point on the ridge we climbed onto the West Top and the South-West Top of An Riabhachan, both Munro Tops before the easy and gentle ascent of An Riabhachan. A further cairn was located further east before the descent of Creagan Toll an Lochain. On this walker’s path I almost stood on a young ptarmigan chick which squealed and ran off down the path and into the cloud. There was no evidence around of its parents or other siblings. On the descent it appeared that the cloud may break and as it was reasonably sheltered we stopped for lunch in anticipation of some views. However we were disappointed as the cloud did the opposite and actually thickened. On finishing lunch we were in the process of packing up when we heard voices and two walkers appeared heading west. The had come up from Innis an Lochiel at the head of Glen Strathfarrar but were only climbing Sgurr na Lapaich and An Riabhachan before returning to their vehicle to get out of the glen before the gate at the entrance to Glen Starthfarrar was closed for the night. At the bealach below Creagan Toll an Lochain we commenced the climb of Sgurr na Lapaich’s south-west ridge. I think this was the hardest part of the day for Tony and Kay who required a few stops en-route to the summit trig point. The descent from this Munro was initially rather awkward as it was over some large boulders but eventually we found a reasonable path which we followed to the Bealach na Cloiche Duibhe. The ascent of Carn nan Gobhar, Tony’s penultimate Munro, was relatively straight forward and we took our final break here before crossing to a slightly lower but more substantial cairn and descended towards Mullach na Maoile. Not long after leaving this second cairn we spotted a mountain hare, a dottrel and its young and a ptarmigan before emerging out of the cloud. Here we saw another couple of walkers who were headed uphill with their backpacking gear. The descent over Mullach na Maoile was relatively easy before we headed own its south-east ridge which was fairly steep and with some rocky outcrops which were not shown on the map. Eventually we reached the rough path along the north shore of Loch Mullardch and walked long it, in the rain, to the dam and the end of the walk. There were several other cars now parked beside the dam, the occupants still out on the hills we had climbed. Tony had arranged for the boat for 8am as according to Carl others had booked the boat at 9 and 10am but from previous experience the earlier the start the better as this walk taking in all four Munros on the north side of Loch Mullardoch is a fairly long day. Tony had his last Munro in Glen Coe planned while Kay had a trip to Skye booked for the following week to try and bag all twelve Munros on the Island, which would leave her with three left to bag.
Meall na Faochaig10 June 2007
This was my day off but once again the forecast was for sunny weather away from the east coast so I decided to get out and make the most of the fine weather. I was hoping for some views as I have never had any in all my visits to the hills of Strathconnon but unfortunately I was to be disappointed. Strathconnon is almost as scenic as the popular Glen Affric but with less tourists. However there are power stations, lots more habitation and even a primary school in the glen. Access to the glen is from Marybank on the A832 along a single track road. I parked my car at the road end to Inverchoran and continued along the road on foot for around four hundred metres to a track that headed uphill. The track later changed direction and ended at a mast near Creag Iucharaidh. As I walked along the top section of this track I came across a lamb and ewe. Nothing unusual in that but unfortunately the ewe was on its back in a dip at the edge of the track and obviously had been there for a while. However it was still alive and bleating as was its lamb so I had to try and right it. Once I got it on its side it managed to stand and staggered off with its lamb. This assistance is obviously not appreciated by farmers and estate owners as they are unaware that some good comes from the Access Code despite their reservations. From the track I headed up a ridge and into the cloud where the visibility was poor. I subsequently reached the west ridge of Meall na Faochaig where there were old fence posts and I followed them towards the summit. There were several peat hags to traverse and old fence wire to avoid before I reached the summit. Well the actual summit was difficult to determine in the mist as there were several small knolls some with a few stones placed on top. I wondered round these knolls before I returned to the start by the ascent route. The weather had not improved but at least the ewe was still upright.
The Sgurrs9 June 2007
I had an unexpected day off due to a cancellation and being based up north and with fine weather forecasted I decided on an ascent of Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a’Chaorachain, easier to call them The Sgurrs. On the A890 Achnasheen to Lochcarron road at Craig there was a parking area on the north side of the road, within the forest, which would probably take around a dozen or so vehicles. There were already several cars parked there when I arrived and a couple were getting their mountain bikes ready. Unfortunately my bike was back at home. I set off across the A890 and the railway line and walked along the track to the bridge over the River Carron which I crossed. It was only 9 o’clock but it was already hot with no wind so I needed to cover up as there was no doubt in these conditions I would easily get burnt. The track steepened and although one of the cyclists passed me a couple of times his female companion had to push her cycle uphill. In fact I never saw them after the locked gate higher up. I caught up with a lone female cyclist and her dog at the locked gate. She wasn’t happy as she thought the locked gate was contrary to the Land Reform Scotland Act 2003 but my interpretation is that the access legislation refers to ‘on foot’ only, although the track was a Right of Way. There was a kissing gate at the side which afforded access to those on foot. I offered to assist her to throw her cycle over the six foot gate but she was concerned that she wouldn’t be able to do this on her return. I left her and the two other cyclists with their access problem and continued uphill and then along a more level area to the Pollan Buidhe. I was overtaken by the lone cyclist who had managed to get her cycle through the gate due to a loose slat. At the Pollan Buidhe I crossed the Allt a’Chonais by a twin wire bridge and took the footpath towards the Bealach Bhearnais. A group of four walkers were out in front of me but I left this path and crossed some rough ground and streams to enter Coire Choinnich as I fancied a different approach to these mountains on this trip. I kept to the east of the stream coming out of the corrie as the rocky outcrops were easier to climb round but the going was tough and it was still hot and sunny. I eventually reached the bealach between The Sgurrs and ascended Sgurr Choinnich first. A path led to the summit where I met a couple of guys from Inverness who were out for four days backpacking, walking from Torridon through to Beauly climbing several peaks en-route. While having a snack we were joined by the sole female walker/cyclist and then by a group of four who were climbing Sgurr Choinnich for charity as part of Water Aid. I later left this peak and returned to the bealach and climbed to the summit of Sgurr a’Chaorachain where only part of the trig point was left. I descended the north ridge of Sgurr a’Chaorachain before dropping down to Pollan Buidhe and the walk back out along the track. This was where the cycle would have been of great benefit especially on the descent from the locked gate. However I stopped on a grassy section at the side of the Allt a’Chonais and had a pleasant lunch in the sun before continuing my return to the car park. By the way the black bull that frequents the area at the start and finish of the walk doesn’t seem to be bothered by walkers although it may be different if you are accompanied by your pooch. Unfortunately I had to dump a lot of my photographs of this walk as the lens must have got a spot of water on it.
Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean25 May 2007
It was wet as I set off from the lay-by on the A890 Achnasheen to Lochcarron road around a kilometre west of the bridge over the Allt Coire Crubaidh. The parking area was marked on the recent addition of the OS Landranger Map 25. A gate beside the lay-by gave access to a field where since my last visit the path leading to the bridge over the River Carron had been improved. Unfortunately the improvements stopped at the river crossing and thereafter it was, as usual, wet and boggy. A further short distance took me to the railway underpass and ahead the open hillside. Here also the lower section of the hillside was wet and boggy but it improved higher up. It was a steady plod and I stuck to the side of a burn for some interest as there isn’t much going for this approach route other than the nearness to the main road. However as height was gained, the rain ceased, and I had views of the North Achnashellach and Torridon mountains and to distant Loch Maree. The weather was improving with glimpses of the sun but there was a cold wind blowing which was stronger the higher I climbed. I could also see dark clouds forming to the north. I reached the summit cairn of Moruisg where there were good views across to Maoile Lunndaidh. I sought some shelter behind the cairn for coffee and sandwich taking in the views to the south but being aware of the cloud building up behind me. I packed up and was about to set off along the ridge when horizontal snow, light at first, struck the area. I headed over to a smaller cairn but I am not sure which of the two cairns is the highest point. Here I was blasted by snow and a strong wind which made for difficult walking conditions and with reduced visibility it was hard going for around ten minutes. I negotiated to the 854 Point and was heading for the Coire an Tuill Bhain as the snow stopped and the cloud lifted which allowed me to spot a couple of ptarmigan who were trying to detract me from my descent route. From Coire an Tuill Bhain it was a short climb, a bit rocky higher up, onto the summit cairn of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean where I had some good views especially from a small cairn slightly to the south of the summit. Maoile Lunndaidh was white after the short snow storm. I returned down the north-east ridge of Sgurr nan Ceannaichean before heading down its north ridge. This ridge was fairly steep lower down and I had to avoid some rocks before I reached the Altan na Feola. I crossed this stream and followed the path on its north side. It was in poor condition higher up but lower down the path wasn’t as wet and boggy, except in the final stretches around the railway underpass. It was then the short return to the lay-by and my car.
Strathfarrar Four10 May 2007
Access to these Munros is normally from Glen Strathfarrar where a tarred road, apparently private, runs through the Glen to Monar Lodge. At the cottage beside Inchmore there is a locked gate which prevents public access to the Glen except at certain times. I arrived at Inchmore early to meet my clients for the day, Tony and Norman. At precisely nine o’clock, don’t expect to obtain access any earlier, the gatekeeper permitted us access and we drove to just west of Inchvuilt where we left a vehicle before returning down the Glen to east of Loch a’Mhuillidh. Although cloudy it appeared to be breaking up so I was hopeful that the forecast for better weather in the afternoon was a bit out time wise. We set off on a vehicle track up the side of the Allt Coire Mhuillidh. However the track soon became a boggy path as we headed for Sgurr na Ruaidhe’s south west ridge. The ascent of this ridge was a bit of a slog and we soon came to the cloud base and my optimism for an improvement in the weather diminished. The higher we got the windier and colder it became and there were traces of some lying snow. Before reaching the summit cairn we encountered one of those snow showers. After a few minutes at Sgorr na Ruaidhe’s summit we descended to its bealach with Carn nan Gobhar where we had a brief view into the Glen of our approach before climbing back into the clouds. Norman was keeping us up to date with our progress as he had a guide to the time it should take to climb each of the Munros. However the top of Sgorr na Ruaidhe soon put paid to reaching the summit within the stipulated time as it is covered in large boulders which were made slippery by a mixture of rain and sleet. On reaching the cairn we sought some shelter from the cold wind and the showers for a bite to eat before completing the traverse of the boulders and heading for the foot of Sgurr a’Choire Ghlais’s east ridge. A fairly steep climb soon took us to its summit which has a trig point and two large cairns. I have never been able to decide which is the highest point so a visit to all three was necessary. It was cloudy and windy with the occasional rain or hail shower as we headed to the final Munro of the day, Sgurr Fhuar-thuill, over the Munro Top, Creag Ghorm a’Bhealaich. It was unfortunate that visibility was so poor as it would have been an interesting ridge walk if we had had some views. On reaching Sgurr Fhuar-thuill, according to Norman five minutes behind schedule, we dropped to the col with Sgurr na Fearstaig and followed the stalker’s path to Loch Toll a’Mhuic, where we came out of the cloud. Beyond this Loch the path is actually a vehicle track and we followed it to the road in Glen Strathfarrar where we had left a car earlier that day. We exited the Glen at the locked gate, well before the 7pm deadline.
previous ascent of Sgurr na Ruaidhe, Carn nan Gobhar and Sgurr a'Choire Ghlais Maoile Lunndaidh24 February 2007
I contacted the Offices of the Mountaineer Council of Scotland in Perth a few days earlier to obtain the number for the combination lock for the gate at Inchmore which would give us access to Glen Strathfarrar. Opposite Inchmore there is a deer farm with lots of hinds in the field. During the drive up Glen Strathfarrar we saw numerous stags, young and old, as this Estate feeds them during the winter. We also saw a lone walker setting off up the track to Sgurr Fhuar-thuill having been conveyed there by taxi. We eventually reached the dam south of Monar Lodge where we parked our vehicle. Parking beyond this point is discouraged. The vehicle track to Monar Lodge was followed before taking the signed diversion route round the property. Here there are some new gates but the Estate still has the barbed wire round the initial gate. This barbed wire readily catches your gear as the bolt to open the gate is rather stiff. Once beyond the Lodge an undulating path was followed for around four kilometres to the Allt a'Choire Fhionnaraich. En route we saw a wren fluttering about below a small heather embankment beside the path. On reaching the stream we followed it towards Corie Fhionnarach where a new footbridge crossed the stream a few meters beyond the one shown on the map. This slight diversion meant a return down the other side of the stream before we rejoined the path on the north side of the Allt a'Chreagain Bhuidhe. This path was followed as it climbed to the Allt Toll a'Choin, crossed the burn and followed its north bank until around 630 metres when it disappeared in the peaty terrain. En route we had spotted some deer and grouse. The weather was mild for the time of year with some light drizzle. There was some low cloud although we did have some views of the lower reaches of Sgurr an Lapaich on the south side of Loch Monar. A compass bearing was followed as we climbed more steeply into the cloud and ascended Creag Toll a'Choin where we spotted a couple of pairs of ptarmigan. Earlier we disturbed some snow buntings. There was very little snow on this ridge but there was a cornice which showed signs of collapse. We followed this ridge to a knoll marked by a cairn and took another bearing to the summit of Maoile Lunndaidh. There was evidence of a few bootprints in the patchy snow and in places there were traces of a path. It was an easy ascent to the summit cairn with very little height difference compared to the knoll. However there was a cold wind blowing so rather than stopping for lunch we descended the south-east ridge. Around 700 metres we stopped for a break with brief views into Gleann Fhiodhaig as the cloud swirled around. Afterwards we headed across some rough and boggy ground to the path beside the Allt Toll a'Choin used earlier in the day. This was followed by a long walk back to the start following the paths used on the outward route. Once again we spotted the wren which kept in front of us for several hundred meters as we headed along the north shore of Loch Monar. Between April and November the locked gate at Inchmore is manned by the gatekeeper and the access hours are a bit restrictive at times especially as you cannot get access till 9am. The advantage of this trip in February meant that there was no pressure to get off the hill and out of the Glen before the gatekeeper finished for the day.
Sgorr na Diollaid22 October 2006
Two lady clients joined me for this walk which had to be reasonably short as one of the ladies required to return, by bus, to the central belt in the afternoon. I selected the Corbett, Sgorr na Diollaid as it was a half day walk and if the weather was fine there are good views from the summit. The start of the walk was on the unclassified road from the village of Cannich to the dam at Loch Mullardoch at the point in Glen Cannich where the road crosses to the north side of the River Cannich and where a track leads to Muchrachd Farm. Initially we crossed some wet ground and climbed through long heather there being no path other than a few animal tracks. Unfortunately the clear weather that I had hoped for didn’t materialise and we were soon into the cloud. The two ladies didn’t seem to mind as they were busy chatting most of the time. There were several roaring stags and I later spotted a group of hinds and a stag before they ran off into the cloud. We continued heading north round several rocky outcrops and eventually came to the rocky summit which necessitated some easy scrambling. We sought some shelter for a snack and it appeared that the cloud may break up but this did not happen so we did not have the views I had hoped for. The descent was uneventful and lower down we came out of the cloud and returned to our vehicle in Glen Cannich and the lady caught her bus south.
Maoile Lunndaidh20 August 2006
This Munro was planned for the Sunday as no stalking was permitted that day and during August, Sunday access to the private road up Glen Strathfarrar was from 9am till 8pm which would be sufficient time to climb this mountain and get out of the Glen. Although I had climbed Maoile Lunndaidh on previous occasions this was my first ascent from Glen Strathfarrar although I had climbed the nearby Corbett, An Sidhean, using part of the approach route. I was at the locked gate at Inchmore in Glen Strathfarrar just before 9am and while waiting for the gate keeper to appear I met a fellow running club member who was there to climb the Corbett Beinn a'Bha'ach Ard. Once permitted access to Glen Strathfarrar I drove to the dam at Loch Monar where I parked my car. Although the road goes as far as Monar Lodge signs warn of no parking beyond the dam. We set off on foot along the road to Monar Lodge and then the path that ran along the north shore of Loch Monar as far as the Allt a'Choire Fhionnaraich. The path was in good condition, albeit slightly undulating. There were good views down Loch Monar despite the light rain showers we encountered. At the Allt a'Choire Fhionnaraich we crossed it by a footbridge which obviously replaced an old bridge and was a few metres further north. (This should not be mistaken for the bridge nearer Loch Monar which gives access along the lochside). We took a short break at the footbridge but not for long as the midges were a nuisance so we set off over some rough ground to reach the stalker's path that lead from the old bridge. This path, which was still in good condition, initially followed the north bank of the Allt a'Chreagain Bhuidhe then over moorland and up the side of the Allt Toll a'Choin. The path then became a bit boggy and ended in the heather and bog. We spotted some mountain blackbirds (ring ouzels) as we climbed onto the south-east ridge of Maoile Lunndaidh where the going was a lot easier on short vegetation with a few stony sections. The rain was now heavier and the cloud had covered the summit as we headed up the ridge to the cairn. Near the summit we spotted around ten ptarmigan, which was probably the largest group I had ever come across. As the summit was in cloud there was little point in walking round the head of the corrie so we returned by our route of ascent. The weather cleared on the descent and the wind dropped to allow the midges to be out in force as we walked along the shore of Loch Monar. However there were some fantastic views down the loch, it was just a pity we couldn't stop long enough to enjoy them. On returning to the car we drove back to Inchmore with around two hours to spare until the gate keeper finished work. I am not sure what would happen if we were late but I don't intend to find out.
Mullardoch Four29 April 2006
The boat from the dam at Loch Mullardoch in Glen Cannich was due to head up the Loch at 8.30am and we arrived in time to see the boat being launched. It was full and it was a pleasant sail in calm and sunny conditions to East Benula Lodge about two thirds of the way up the Loch. This is far superior to walking along the Lochside on a muddy and sometimes indistinct path which takes around two hours, as I have walked this route before. On alighting from the boat we followed the path on the north side of the Allt Coire a'Mhaim before fording this stream, crossing some peat bogs and onto the south-east ridge of An Socach. It was a steady climb on this twisting ridge but as we gained height the views of the surrounding mountains became more extensive. Higher up we crossed some snow fields and noted how dangerous the cornices were as they were cracked and ready to collapse. Just before arriving at the summit a chap, who had come up from Iron Lodge, was headed towards the summit cairn. He was one of probably around thirty people we passed on these remote hills that day. After a short stop at the summit to take in the views and some food we descended the snow covered east ridge of An Socach and climbed the Munro Tops of An Riabhachan before strolling along the level ridge to the actual summit. Beyond that there was a small knoll, with a cairn, where a few walkers were gathered. We continued to the narrow ridge of Creagan Toll an Lochan which was still covered in some deep snow so some care was required and once again the ice axes were in use. Once at the bealach between An Riabhachan and Sgurr na Lapaich we had another fuel stop taking in more food and liquid before the ascent of Sgurr na Lapaich. We were able to avoid most of the snow until nearer the summit, where again there were several walkers surrounding the cairn and trig point. I was aware that the initial descent from this summit would be a slight problem as it is narrow and was full of snow but once we were round the first rocky section we were able to descend through the deep soft snow. Occasionally it was too deep and we had to wriggle our way out. On reaching the bealach the ground was free of snow and it was a steady climb to the summit of Carn nan Gobhar. It was now getting late so we crossed over some more snow fields to the bealach between Carn nan Gobhar and Creag Dubh before descending to the path beside the Allt Mullardoch. The path was wet and boggy in many places and it took a while to get back to the north shore of Loch Mullardoch. The final stretch along the Loch's shore was on muddy paths through long heather but after nearly twelve hours we eventually returned to our cars parked beside the dam. It was the end of a pleasant but tough day on the hills with some spectacular views with the higher mountains still covered in snow.
Sgurr Fhuar-thuill23 April 2006
It was the this time last year when, with the same client, I tackled the four Strathfarrar Munros from east to west. However due to the snow conditions, which slowed us down, we only managed to climb three of them. We were now back to bag the final one, Sgurr Fhuar-thuill. Access to the Glen is restricted by a locked gate at Inchmore which is only opened by the Gatekeeper at certain times, (see The Mountaineering Council of Scotland for details) so this was our first obstacle. We arrived minutes before the nine o'clock opening time, and stopped at the gate to wait for our permit. The 'friendly' Gatekeeper came out and asked me to move my vehicle as I was obstructing anyone leaving the Glen. I would have moved if that occurred but to prevent any argument I reversed clear of the gate as she returned to her house. She later reappeared, made some comment about stopping outside her house, gave me my permit and opened the gate to allow us through. So beware, stop before reaching the house or you upset the Gatekeeper. I drove up this scenic and obviously very quiet Glen to around a kilometre west of Braulen Lodge where there is ample parking. We then headed up the track beside the Allt Toll a'Mhuic which has some lovely waterfalls. The vehicle track changed into a path and crossed the Allt Toll a'Mhuic, which was in spate, so we decided to walk round Loch Toll a'Mhuic and rejoin the track further north. We even managed a short break at a sandy section of the Loch which was sheltered from the wind. There was a lot of avalanche debris and we heard a roar and saw snow and a few boulders tumble down the side of Sgurr na Muice. It made us more aware of the dangers within the corrie and to make sure we took a suitable course. We climbed towards the path and found traces of one where it crossed another stream but it followed this stream as it headed into the Corrie. The path on the map doesn't but due to extensive snow cover it was easier to follow the stream. We soon lost this path in the snow which was soft and deep and hid everything including the stream. We were being caught by another walker but when he reached the snow he also slowed down and followed the trail I was making. The walking became very slow as the snow wouldn't hold my weight and I never knew how deep it was. It was also difficult to work out the snow banks and drifts due to the lighting. Once beyond the stream I headed towards where the path should be and the walker behind changed direction and headed towards some hanging cornices, which was a bit of concern to me especially with all the avalanche debris in the area. It was hard work climbing through the steep snow below Sgurr na Fearstaig but we eventually reached the ridge east of this mountain as the cloud descended and it started to snow. It was also windy. We headed towards Sgurr Fhuar-thuill but the weather got slightly worse and as everything round about was now white it was very difficult to see as visibility was now almost zero. Some rocks were located which helped vision and we eventually reached the summit cairn, which was surrounded by drifting snow or ice. We commenced the return towards Sgurr na Feartaig and met the other hill walker following our tracks. He did not have an axe and was just using his poles. Shortly thereafter the cloud cleared and we had some good views. It was decided that we would return down the south ridge of Sgurr na Feartaig and over Sgurr na Muice rather than go back by the ascent route. This route gave us some fantastic views of the snow clad mountains and of the contorted cornices which the other hill walker had come through. I could see his boot prints but I wasn't going to risk going too close to the edge to see how he managed to climb through the cornice. The walk over Sgurr na Muice was sometimes over bare ground or some snow but it wasn't very deep and gave reasonable walking. Once over Sgurr na Muice it was a fairly steep descent avoiding some rocky outcrops and lower down we disturbed some deer, the first we had seen on these mountains. Once below the rocks we crossed over some wet and boggy ground to the track used in the morning and an easy walk back to the start. My client found the walk very tough and said it had been one of the hardest days, condition wise, that she had experienced and she has completed over 230 Munros.
Bac an Eich29 January 2006
The start of this walk was from near Inverchoran in Glen Strathconon where there is limited parking at the side of the road. From here a walk to Inverchoran, with a slight diversion to avoid the farmhouse leads to the vehicle track up Gleann Chorainn. This track was followed until the end of the forest where we crossed the stream and headed up towards Loch Toll Lochain watched by deer on the ridges above us. Once we reached the gullied stream flowing out of the Loch we followed it upstream until we found a suitable crossing point. From here frozen boggy ground was crossed to the foot of Sgurr Toll Lochain. A steep climb ensued on a lightly snow covered surface avoiding several rocky outcrops. From the summit of Sgurr Toll Lochain we had to negotiate some peat hags before the walking became easier as we headed to the cloud covered summit of Bac an Eich. There were no views from this summit so we set off down the ridge above An Leth-chreag before crossing to the north side of the stream to avoid some deep gorges. At this point the cloud broke and the sun came out. Unfortunately it was a bit too late for us although it did enhance the views for the rest of the walk. We subsequently found a vehicle track and followed it down to two ruined houses at Corriefoot, which were probably part of the Highland Clearances. From Corriefoot we crossed the bridge at Corrievuic and found somewhere in the sun to have lunch. After lunch we walked along the vehicle track to Scadroy where we joined the public road along the north shore of Loch Beannacharain with its reflections of the forest and hills on its mirrored surface. From the end of the Loch it was only a short distance back to our car near Inverchoran.
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