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Section 10b - Loch Eil to Glen Shiel Mountains
Section 10b - This section refers to the hills and mountains from Loch Eil to Glen Shiel including Knoydart, Glen Dessarry, Loch Quoich, South Cluanie Ridge and the Saddle.. They cover the Corbetts, Grahams and Munros that I have climbed in this area since 2003.
Index to Hills in this SectionBeinn Bhan31 August 2008
My plan was to climb the Corbett, Meall a'Phubuill, from the top end of Glen Loy but as I drove from Banavie, on the outskirts of Fort William, along the B8004 towards Gairlochy, the rain was rather incessant. I therefore decided to climb the Corbett, Beinn Bhan instead as it was a shorter walk. The starting point was sill Glen Loy but at the bridge over the River Loy beside the access road to Inverskilavuiln. On my arrival at this location I observed that Inverskilavuiln was no longer an old ruin, as was the case on my last visit, but a new white house. I walked up the access road to this property looking for a suitable route to avoid this new house and was pleasantly surprised to find a marked path round the property which consisted of a couple of houses and some chalets, obviously holiday homes. The marked path kept me on the west side of the stream flowing out of Coire Mhuilinn, just where I wanted to be. Beyond the marked path I followed tracks, probably animal ones, through wet vegetation, including bracken which was starting to die off. The rain was now more showery but with very little wind it was warm work as I climbed my way round Coire Mhuilinn in low cloud. Some deer were spotted through the mist walking across the hillside. A couple of cairns were reached as I headed round the top of the Coire and out to the trig point marking the summit of Beinn Bhan. Some old fence posts aided navigation. I took a short break here before descending the east side of Coire Mhuilinn and out of the cloud which was starting to lift a bit. I had view down to Glen Loy and the holiday homes at Inverskilavuiln and I could also see the mountain that had been my original destination, Meall a'Phubuill. Lower down I worked my way through the bracken before reaching a fence and a sign indicating my route back to the road. A couple of small foot bridges had been installed to make things easier to cross some boggy ground and I eventually joined the route round the property used earlier in the day and the short walk back to the car. This was my second ascent of Beinn Bhan and I have yet to get a view from the top.
An Stac and Carn Mor16 - 18 August 2008
The Graham, An Stac and the Corbett, Carn Mor are fairly remote mountains to the east of Loch Morar. I decided to climb them on a backpacking trip from the west end of Loch Arkaig. A narrow single track road, presently under repair, runs along the north shore of Loch Arkaig and ends a short distance from Strathan where there is limited parking. This road is accessed from Gairlochy near Spean Bridge. I set off along the private road to Strathan and through the forest in Glen Pean. Initially the vehicle track was in reasonable condition but it later became quite boggy with tree branches laid across it, obviously to assist vehicle movement. At the west end of the forest an alternative route for walkers was marked through the tress, I presume to avoid the degrading condition of the track. This alternative route took me to Glen Pean bothy where I sat outside and had lunch. I later continued my hike west along the north side of the River Pean following a path which was a bit overgrown and boggy in places. There were lots of butterflies flying around. On reaching Lochan Leum an t-Sagairt the map showed that the path was non-existent on the north side of the Lochan, which was due to a landslide several years ago. I found a route above the south side of the Lochan but it was quite narrow in places and required care. This took me beyond the Lochan and to a more grassy and boggy section where the path wasn't obvious. A small weed covered lochan was reached and here there had been another landslip. Again I stayed above this area, to the south, and reached a stalker's path which I was going to use to gain height to climb An Stac. Firstly I wanted to find a camp site, which I did next to the path. The site was exposed to the strong wind, which was the intention, as better the wind than the midges. Once I had pitched my tent and sorted out my gear I headed up this stalker's path, which was a bit rough and boggy, crossing and re-crossing a few streams. I later left the stalker's path and followed a stream that flowed from the west before ascending the rocky An Stac. I arrived at the summit around ninety minutes after leaving my camp site and had views of the Graham, Meath Bheinn, Lochs Morar, Nevis and Arkaig, the Islands of Rum and Skye, the Corbetts, Carn Mor and Bidean a'Chabair and the Munro Sgurr nan Coireachan. Time was getting on so after a short break at the summit I headed back to my tent by the upward route and was spotted by a few deer. It was then time to cook my meal and while doing so I spotted a couple just below me and there was me thinking I had the area to myself. However after a short break they continued west towards Loch Morar although by this time the sun was setting. Fortunately there was still a breeze so the midges weren't a problem and it was pleasant sitting outside watching the mountains change colour. It had been a fine day and evening despite the forecast so I wasn't surprised that around seven the next day it started to rain. However it wasn't too heavy so I later rose and had breakfast before packing up and commencing the ascent of Carn Mor. The previous day I had seen a grassy rake that I could use to gain access to this mountain but I was immediately confronted with the problem of crossing the debris from the landslip. It was horrendous, massive boulders, some covered in moss, with deep gouges made progress very slow searching for a route across. It took me around twenty five minutes to find a route through this maze of boulders and trees. Once clear I crossed over to the grassy rake and climbed it until I reached a wide grassy area where a hind and its calf were resting and higher up a fully developed stag. Higher up I came across more rock as the cloud level varied sometimes to engulf me other times to give me a brief view of the route ahead. I came to Meall na Each's east ridge where there was a line of old metal fence posts which I followed. The route dropped slightly before I climbed to a small lochan and shortly thereafter a small cairn. I was in the cloud at this time but it lifted very briefly so that I could get another view of Loch Morar. There was no point in hanging around so I descended Carn Mor's east ridge, got out of the cloud and into Coire an Eich. I thereafter followed the Allt Coire an Eich over some rough ground and when the gorge became rather awkward to negotiate I cut across to A'Chuil bothy where I sat outside and enjoyed lunch. The final section of the walk entailed following the vehicle track through Glen Dessarry forest back to Strathan my car.
Sgurr Choinich5 July 2008
The Graham Sgurr Choinich is located between Loch Arkaig to the south and Loch Garry in the north with the Loch Arkaig approach being the shorter, although maybe not the easiest. The single track road that runs along the north shore of Loch Arkaig was again under repair which was badly needed as it must have been one of the worst maintained roads in the Highlands, albeit it is mainly used by walkers and estate staff. Last year they upgraded a section of the road so they are now working on another bit. However don’t expect to make faster progress as the continuous bends and dips will still be there, just a few less pot holes. Parking was available at a small picnic area just east of the Allt Mhuic. I walked west along the road for a short distance before reaching a couple of gates, one locked, the other for access on foot. A notice indicated that cattle were summer grazing in the field to reduce the length of the grasses and bracken. I followed a marked path but soon lost it in the bracken which was almost shoulder high. The cattle weren’t doing a very good job! I worked my way through the bracken and onto more wet ground where there was plenty of bog myrtle but it was easier to walk through than the bracken. I passed some young Highland cattle but they only showed a passing interest before I reached a forest track which had been constructed to link the adjoining forests as they were obviously removing timber from the westerly forest, the lochside road probably being unsuitable for this purpose. Further north I came across a deer fence which I had to clamber over before reaching the open hillside which was covered in bog cotton. I followed the side of a stream, this seemed easier than the hummocky grass. As height was gained the going became easier and the views of the Corryhully Munros and the Glen Dessarry mountains continued to improve in the clear fine weather. On nearing the top I was aware of deer and disturbed a young deer calf which ran off with its mother down the north side of the hill. I was disappointed that I hadn’t spotted it earlier and that I only saw it briefly. However as I continued to the summit I couldn’t decide if it was a stone or a deer calf so I slowly walked towards it with the camera ready and spotted it’s ears. It obviously heard me and was startled and ran off before slowly trotting back in my direction occasionally stopping to stamp its leg. I managed to get a few photographs but it was one of nature’s great experiences. Where was Kate Humble? I was being watched closely by hinds, some of whom had young alongside, but as I left this deer calf and headed for the summit they all ran off. On my arrival at the summit cairn, in addition to the mountains already mentioned, I had views of the Kintail, Loch Quoich, Knoydart and Loch Lochy mountains. I found a suitable spot to relax and eat my lunch considering how lucky I had been to spot the deer calf and to get so close to it. After an extended break I left the summit and returned to the start, generally by my ascent route. There was no trace of the deer calf so I presumed it had joined its mother. Lower down I saw a fellow walker headed towards Sgurr Choinich but we were a bit apart so our paths never crossed. Maybe Graham bagging is becoming more popular?
Sgurr nan Eugallt and Slat Bheinn17 – 18 May 2008
Slat Bheinn is a rather awkward mountain to access located in the Barrisdale Forest between the Corbetts Sgurr nan Eugallt and Sgurr a’Choire-bheithe. I looked at this Graham when I ascended Sgurr nan Eugallt and the Graham Meall nan Eun whilst staying at The Stable, Barrisdale but the weather was poor and it would have made for an excessively long day. I decided that the easiest way to climb Slat Bheinn was probably from the unclassified road that runs from the A87 Invergarry to Kyle of Lochalsh Road to Kinloch Hourn. I was also aware that a good stalker’s path left the ruined building at Coireshubh and headed almost to the north-east ridge of Sgurr nan Eugallt at 660 metres and I decided to use this route to reach Slat Bheinn. Parking around Coireshubh was a bit difficult as the road gets narrower here and twists and turns before a steep descent to the hamlet of Kinloch Hourn. However I managed to find a bit of grass verge where I could leave my vehicle. It was a sunny evening as I set off up the stalker’s path towards Sgurr nan Eugallt. The path was in reasonable condition as it had been fairly dry recently but I would suspect it could be a bit boggy in sections in wet weather. As height was gained I had increasing views of Loch Quoich, which I drove along earlier that day, also across to Buidhe Bheinn which I was on only a couple of weeks ago, and The Saddle and Sgurr na Sgine. The path twisted and turned as it passed through gorges and round crags before it headed below Sgurr Dubh. Thereafter it did become slightly indistinct but the path did go to within a few metres of the bealach south of Sgurr Dubh. The ridge is marked by some old metal fence posts but they do not go all the way to the summit of Sgurr nan Eugallt but bypass it to the east before heading towards Sgurr a’Chlaidheimh. I climbed the north-east ridge of Sgurr nan Eugallt in a cold northerly wind following traces of a walker’s path. Higher up the ridge narrowed and became a bit more rocky with some easy scrambling before reaching the summit trig point. I recalled that the highest point was further north-west so I headed out there although the height difference wasn't obvious. Great views were had of the the Knoydart Mountains, Loch Hourn and across the sea to Eigg, Rum and Skye all in the evening sun. I also had a view east to Ben Nevis. Well worth the effort. This was my third ascent of Sgurr nan Eugallt and the first time I had a view so that was great. I returned to the trig point and descended Sgurr nan Eugallt's south ridge following the old fence posts again. However as the ridge swung slightly more towards the east I continued south and descended steeply as I worked my way down grassy gullies to I avoided numerous crags, not shown on my map. Several lone deer ran off and after some effort I reached the path at the head of Glen Barrisdale. From there it was only a short walk to Loch an Lagain Aintheich which was my intended camping spot. Although probably a bit boggy when wet I was able to pitch my tent at the north-east end looking over this idyllic loch. It was a bit cold and windy here but the tent gave me shelter while I cooked and ate a late tea looking out over the Loch and to Slat Bheinn. The next morning it was a calm, sunny but cold as I ate breakfast, again overlooking the Loch and to my intended destination Slat Bheinn. While there a snipe landed briefly in front on my tent but quickly flew off when it spotted me. After breakfast I commenced the ascent of Slat Bheinn by its east ridge. There were lots of undulations and crags but gassy ledges allowed me to bypass the crags. The summit cairn was reached with views again of the Knoydart mountains, Skye and Eigg as well as Beinn Sgritheall. A cool wind was blowing but the awesome views made up for the slight discomfort. The return to Loch an Lagain Aintheich was back along the east ridge before dropping down a grassy gully to the west end of the Loch. It was then time for a second meal before taking down my tent and packing away my gear before a reascent of Sgurr nan Eugallt. I had noticed that further to the east meant less crags so that was the route I took onto its south- east ridge. It was a steady climb to a point higher than the Graham I had ascended earlier. Once on the ridge I followed the fence posts which bypassed the summit of Sgurr nan Eugallt and down its north-east ridge to the stalker’s path used the previous evening and the return to Coireshubh.
previous ascent of Sgurr nan Eugallt
Sgurr Mhic Bharraich and Biod an Fhithrich5 May 2008
This was to be a shorter day as one of us needed to return home that afternoon so it was decided that the Corbett, Sgurr Mhic Bharraich fitted into the time scale available. The starting point was Shiel Bridge where there is a reasonable sized car parking area behind the shop and filling station and just outside the camp site. We walked round the perimeter of the camp site and followed the path up the side of the Allt Undalain. It was a bright sunny morning and there were already a few walkers out and about compared to the previous two days when we only saw other walkers at the end of the second day. It was warm walking up the glen and we heard our second cuckoo of the season. At the junction of streams and where there was evidence of old habitation the path turned to the west and we started to climb towards Loch Coire nan Crogahan with the snow fields of The Saddle to our left. The loch was eventually reached before we left the path and climbed up the south side of Sgurr Mhic Bharraich avoiding rocky outcrops. We came onto a plateau and it was then just a short climb to the summit cairn of Sgurr Mhic Bharraich. We had a 360 degree panoramic view including Rum, Skye, Applecross, Torridon, Five Sisters and The Saddle. A short walk to a knoll further west gave additional views of Loch Duich and Glenelg. A break was taken at the summit looking out west before we commenced the descent on the east side of Sgurr Mhic Bharraich. Once well down and in sight of the path used earlier that day we parted company. I headed down to the junction of streams and the old habitation we had passed earlier that day. Here I crossed the Allt a’Coire Uaine and followed the Allt a’Choire Chaoil towards the corrie below the Forcan Ridge disturbing a large herd of deer. Once higher up I climbed onto the south ridge of Biod an Fhithrich with a great view down onto the main road running through Glen Shiel. On reaching the summit cairn of Biod an Fhithrich I had a late lunch sitting looking across to the Forcan Ridge and the Five Sisters. I could have remained there resting and bathing in the sun but I still had a long undulating ridge to traverse before I could return to my car. I set off down the A’Mhuing Ridge with some rocky sections which required avoiding and lots of ups and down before it changed direction and headed north with loads of twists and turns to find the most suitable line of descent. At an old stone dyke I followed it until I joined up with the path I had used that morning at the bridge over the Allt Undalain. Thereafter it was a short walk back to the start of the walk. previous ascent of Sgurr Mhic Bharraich
Beinn nan Caorach and Beinn na h-Eaglaise4 May 2008
To reach the start of this walk it was necessary to drive over the Bealach Ratagan, from Shiel Bridge on the A87, with its fantastic views over Loch Duich to the Five Sisters, through Glenelg to Arnisdale all on single track roads. Just south of Arnisdale House a track headed east along the north side of the River Arnisdale and this was the starting point of the walk. Neither vehicle access nor parking were permitted along this track and the nearest suitable parking area was further south at the end of the public road at Corran. The track was followed passed a house, not named on my map but which had recently been redeveloped, towards the bridge over the River Arnisdale. The map then showed a path which headed round the north side of a building named as Achadh a’Ghlinne, which looked like a storage area. However the path was not obvious but there was a rusty bridge west of Achadh a’Ghlinne to assist in the crossing of the Allt Utha if the stream was in spate. Highland cattle were resting nearby. It was rather warm as a steady climb on a zig zag path commenced. A few deer were spotted but on the whole they saw us first and were on the move. The path continued towards Coire Chorsalain but once beyond the Allt Utha waterfall and gorge we left the path, crossed the stream coming down from the Coire, and commenced the climb of Beinn nan Caorach. It was a steady climb avoiding stones and higher up some rocks but as height was gained it became rather windy and the rain started. A ptarmigan flew off into the wind. The summit was reached but it was too windy to hang around although the cloud was still clear of the mountain although higher tops were cloud covered. We descended the north ridge of Beinn nan Caorach which if necessary had a few metal fence posts to assist with navigation. The rain had ceased and the wind dropped as we worked our way round the head of Coire Dhruim nam Bo and onto Druim nan Bo. The metal fence posts were still in evidence and the steep ascent of Beinn na h-Eaglaise commenced as the rain and wind returned. Higher up the ridge some rock had to be avoided before the ridge narrowed and the summit of Beinn na h-Eaglaise was achieved. It was very windy here so we didn't stop but headed down the south-east ridge which was still marked by fence posts. Lower down we found some shelter for lunch in the rain. Thereafter we continued the descent to Beinn Bhuidhe and the persistent rain became light showers and we had views of Loch Hourn and across to Skye. The descent then became more entertaining as we avoided lots of rocks and dropped down gullies disturbing loads of deer. Despite the clear weather it was still necessary to stop frequently to check our route to ensure that we were able to clear the many rocky outcrops. Eventually we reached the track in Glen Arnisdale that we had used in the morning and saw a large group of walkers, the only walkers we had seen in two days. It was then a short walk back to the start.
Sgurr a’Bhac Chaolais and Buidhe Bheinn3 May 2008
The original plan for this weekend was to head for Rum and climb the Rum Cuillin but the forecast for the weekend was for wet and windy weather so that idea was abandoned and replaced with the ascent of a few of the Kintail Corbetts. Heading west on the A87 Invermoriston to Kyle of Lochalsh Road I could see that the tops of the Glen Shiel mountains were cloud covered. However by the time I met my client at the Cluanie Inn and driven to the start of the day’s walk the cloud had lifted clear of the summits. The start of this walk was the lay-by east of the Allt Mhalagain on the A87. A short walk west took us to the start of the Right of Way to Kinloch Hourn and Loch Quoich. We followed this path up the side of the Allt Mhalagain and to the Bealach Duibh Leac. At points higher up the path wasn’t obvious but I have used it on several occasions so I was aware of where it twisted and turned to avoid slab rock. This path is often used by those descending after completing the seven Munros of the South Glenshiel ridge. At the Bealach Duibh Leac it was a short climb following an old stone dyke and latterly metal fence posts to the summit of Sgurr a’Bhac Chaolais. Here there were views of Sgurr na Sgine, The Saddle and its Forcan Ridge, the Five Sisters, The Brothers and back along the ridge we had walked to the westerly Munros of the South Glenshiel Ridge. The Corbett Sgurr a'Bhac Chaolais has the same height as Buidhe Bheinn a couple of kilometres further south but the drop on the intervening ridge does not meet the stipulated 500 feet and therefore they are classed as twins (some say Siamese twins) and not two separate Corbetts. This of course causes a dilemma for Corbett baggers on how to approach these two mountains and whether it is necessary to climb both. My opinion is that both mountains must be climbed to claim this one Corbett so we returned along the east ridge of Sgurr a’Bhac Chaolais for a short distance and then followed the old stone dyke along the undulating ridge towards Buidhe Bheinn. There were lots of twists and turns and several knolls to clamber over giving the impression that these two mountains deserved to be classed as individual Corbetts. The stone dyke did not continue all the way to Buidhe Bheinn where the latter section of the ascent of Buidhe Bheinn was rocky and a bit exposed to a strong wind that was blowing up through some of the corries. The summit of Buidhe Bheinn was eventually reached, a knoll north-east of what was shown on the OS Map. Here we sought some shelter for a late lunch looking west over towards The Saddle, Skye and Rum. After lunch we walked out to the 879 top which gave even better views which included Loch Hourn and Ladhar Bheinn. Once we had taken a few photographs we commenced the long return to Glen Shiel by the outward route although we didn’t have to go back to the actual summit of Sgurr a’Bhac Chaolais. During this adventure we never saw or met any other walkers despite it being a holiday weekend so maybe they had been put off by the poor weather forecast. However other than a few occasional spots of rain and it being a bit windy at times the weather was reasonable and the mountains remained clear of cloud. There was also a lack of wild life although we did hear the first cuckoo of the year.
Sgurr na Ciche, Ben Aden and Bidean a'Chabair19/20 April 2008
I had climbed Ben Aden in October 2004 and didn't fancy a repeat of the long walk along the north shore of Loch Quoich. We had considered climbing it from Inverie on our visit there in April 2005 but abandoned that idea due the weather. An attempt was made in March 2006 whilst staying in Barrisdale but we were beaten back by bad weather and a swollen stream having got as far as the east end of Lochan nam Breac. So a new plan had been devised to climb Ben Aden during a backpacking trip in May 2008 starting from Glen Dessarry. However the weather in the west of Scotland was to remain fine although a bit windy so it was decided to bring the trip forward. We set off from the end of the public road at the west end of Loch Arkaig and followed the vehicle track passed Strathan and Glendessarry Lodge to Upper Glendessarry where the vehicle track ended. From here a path, which is a Right of Way, led to Sourlies and Inverie and is normally wet and boggy in places. Fortunately due to the recent dry spell it wasn't too bad. On approaching the highest point on this path we left it and followed a stream flowing from below Garbh Chioch Mhor. The route is now obvious from miles away as the estate has scarred the hillside with the construction of a vehicle track. On reaching the foot of the gully between Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor we ascended the gully through some wet and in places deep snow hiding the gaps between the boulders. We talked about this ascent as being rather challenging but in hindsight it wasn't compared to later in the day. Once at the bealach between Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor the plan was to traverse round to the north ridge of Sgurr na Ciche. Unfortunately the north face of Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor were full of snow and too dangerous to contemplate such a crossing. We therefore climbed Sgurr na Ciche through some snow patches, which concealed the walker's path to the summit, where it was very windy but with good views all round including the Knoydart mountains, Loch Nevis and our intended destination, Ben Aden. An old stone wall descended the north ridge of Sgurr na Ciche so we walked back along the east ridge to it and followed this wall down the snow covered ridge. The snow, which was mainly soft, concealed the gaps between the boulders but we kept as close to the wall as possible other than when we had to descend round some rocky outcrops. A knoll was crossed before some more rough walking but at least here the snow had become a bit more patchy. The ridge became rather twisted as we frequently had to deviate around rocky outcrops so even with good visibility care was required to ensure that we were still on the ridge and headed in the correct direction. A feeding stag was surprised by our appearance. Rather than climb Meall a'Choire Dhuibh we were able to cross to its west ridge and descend to the lochans from where we commenced the ascent of Ben Aden. Again not a straight forward climb due to the rocky nature of the terrain but we eventually arrived at the summit cairn over eight hours after we set out from the west end of Loch Arkaig. It was less windy here with views of the mountains of Knoydart and Kintail and of Lochs Hourn, Nevis and Quoich. It would have been nice to linger a while longer on the summit but we needed to get lower to find a suitable camp site so returned down Ben Aden's east ridge to the lochans before a steep descent to the Beallach na h-Eangair. There were no suitable camping spots here so we continued down the glen to shielings beside the River Carnoch arriving there just as it was getting dark. A suitable spot was found but there was a strong smell of rotten flesh and I found two dead stags behind one of walls. To my knowledge finding two dead stags together is rather unusual so I presume they perished in a storm. The tents were moved to another location where we were able to utilise one of the old houses as a kitchen with shelter from the wind. The following morning we set off down the east side of the River Carnoch where there were traces of All Terrain Vehicle tracks. The ground was relatively dry until lower down where there were some bog to divert round. The map showed a path on the opposite side of the river but I never saw any evidence of it but we were happy enough where we were. Some sheep and lambs were feeding on the plains at the head of Loch Nevis but there was a lot of unsightly plastic lying about having been washed up by the tide and blown around. Not much scope for a clean up in this area. The tide was in and this necessitated a clamber round some rocks before walking along the shingle beach to Sourlies bothy. It was sheltered and sunny here and what an idyllic location. There were a couple campers packing up to return to Loch Arkaig and a group, who had slept in the bothy, were off to Inverie. We stopped here for a brew up and a seat outside the bothy in the sun. It was a bit of a wrench to leave this tranquil area but the plan was to try and climb another remote Corbett on our return to Loch Arkaig. We walked round the head of Loch Nevis as the tide was quickly retreating, passed some ruined houses and commenced the steady climb up Coire Dubh keeping to the west of the gullies and higher up, rock. This led to the bealach between Sgurr nam Meirleach and Sgurr na h-Aide where we had views of Lochs Nevis and Morar, Rum, Eigg, Ardnamurchan, Rois-bheinn Corbetts and the Corryhully Munros. The west ridge of Sgurr na h-Aide was climbed still with these fantastic sea and mountain views but this wasn't our intended destination. It was further east and eight metres higher according to the map. The drop from Sgurr na h-Aide involved some easy down climbing and snow patches to cross before the ascent of the rocky summit of Bidean a'Chabair where we had a break sheltered from the breeze looking out over Lochs Morar and Nevis to Rum and Eigg. In addition we had also had views of the snow clad Cullin mountains on Skye, Torridon to the east Ben Nevis. You need to be high up to see Ben Nevis and Loch Nevis from the same location. Once lunch was over the long descent to Loch Arkaig commenced. An awkward rocky section containing a touch of wet snow had to be down climbed first and then various snow fields crossed as we walked down the ever twisting north-east ridge of Bidean a'Chabair over the knoll Meall na Sroine and onto the Right of Way to Inverie. On the descent I saw a ptarmigan, which had lost its winter colours, a ring ouzel, a wagtail and several wheatears. The Right of Way was followed back to Loch Arkaig and the end of two long and rather challenging days but with some awesome views and idyllic settings. The daily distances shown are taken off a map and are the minimum walked. A couple of kilometres should be added due to the deviations made for the terrain and twisting ridges.
previous ascent of
Sgurr na Ciche previous ascent of Bidean a'Chabair
Glens Dessarry and Kingie Backpack15 - 16 March 2008
The start of this backpacking trip was the end of the public road that runs along the north shore of Loch Arkaig reached from Gairlochy west of Spean Bridge on the A82 Fort William to Inverness road. As said before this is a narrow undulating single track road and in sections is in poor condition. At the end of the public road there is a small turning circle at a gate with limited parking facilities. There were already several vehicles parked along the roadside on my arrival. Once I had gathered and packed all my gear for an overnight camp I set off west along the vehicle track passed the holiday accommodation at Strathan to the sign indicating the Right of Way north to Tomdoun. I followed this Right of Way up the side of the Dearg Allt although it is now mainly a wet and boggy All Terrain Vehicle track. On the ascent of this track I came across a couple of mating frogs so spring had obviously arrived although the weather wasn't that spring like with a cold northerly wind blowing. However the frogs were out in force in several pools and evidence of frog spawn not always in water. On approaching the water shed I left my rucksack and headed onto the south-west ridge of Sgurr Mhurlagain. There was a bit of snow on this Corbett but mainly on the north side so I was able to avoid most of the snow fields. My first golden plover of the year sounded its alarm call as I headed towards the summit cairn. From the summit I had views south across Loch Arkaig to Gulvain, Streap, Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Coireachan, three of these mountains I had climbed last month. To the west were the Knoydart mountains and my next hill, Fraoch Bheinn. To the north was Sgurr Mor, tomorrow's mountain, the mountains of Loch Quoich and beyond them some of the Kintail hills. Ben Nevis, the Aonachs and Grey Corries were some of the mountains I could see to the east. It was rather cold on the summit so I returned by the ascent route back to collect my rucksack and headed to the foot of Fraoch Bheinn. The west side of this Corbett was a bit steeper than Sgurr Mhurlagain and as I headed up into a gully the snow was very sugary and there was evidence of some avalanche debris. Eventually I came onto the south ridge of Froach Bheinn before winding my way through some rocks to the summit cairn. Here the views were still clear and to the west included the Islands of Skye, Rum and Eigg. I continued to the north top of Froach Bheinn and descended its north-east ridge. It became quite tricky as it narrowed considerably with lots of snow and I couldn't be sure that once I was beyond this narrow section that it was possible to descend into Glen Kingie where I had planned to set up camp. I retreated to the north top and then attempted the north-west ridge which was easier with snow fields to descend making walking easier. Lower down some rocky outcrops had to be avoided before I dropped into Glen Kingie. It was now almost dark so I had to find somewhere to pitch my tent. The ground was fairly wet and boggy but I did find somewhere to put the tent up albeit not the best camp site I have found. Once the tent was up it was time for tea and a rest before the next day's mountains. After a good night's sleep it was a bit of a wrench to get up and venture into a cold wind. The cloud was also a bit lower, occasionally covering the higher tops. I walked down to the River Kingie which was relatively easy to cross, and commenced the steady climb to the bealach between Sgurr Mor and Sgurr an Fhuarain, watched by deer. Higher up there were some snow fields which I couldn't avoid and once at the bealach the angle eased for the climb to the circular trig point marking the summit of Sgurr an Fhuarain. There were good views down into Loch Quoich and its surrounding mountains and towards Knoydart. I returned to the bealach and climbed Sgurr Mor. Higher up there were snow fields to traverse with some icy patches. From the summit I could see Lochan nam Breac and Ben Aden, a Corbett planned for later in the year. It would have been interesting to continue to Sgurr Beag but the shorter route was back to the bealach and drop down to my tent. Once I had re-packed it was a steady climb over wet and in places boggy ground to the bealach between Fraoch Bheinn and Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoidh where there was a path. It was very rough, wet and boggy at times, and I followed it down the west side of the Allt na Feithe to the vehicle track at Glendessarry Lodge. From here it was only 2.5 kilometres back to my vehicle and the end of a successful two days bagging Corbetts and a Munro. previous ascent of Sgurr Mhurlagain and Fraoch Bheinn
Gulvain17 February 2008
It was back along the A830 Fort William to Mallaig Road, but only as far as the junction with the A861 road to Strontian. On the opposite side of this juction are a few cottages and to their east an old bridge. There is limited parking at the east side of this bridge. We walked north up Gleann Fionnlighe on a rough vehicle track initially on the east side of the Fionn Lighe but after around two kilometres the track crossed this very clear and sparkling stream via a bridge. However we still had another 4 kilometres to walk before reaching the bridge over the Allt a'Choire Reidh at Na Socachan, which I think refers to a ruin. Beyond here the track degenerated into a peaty path but fortunately due to the lack of rain in the past week or so it wasn't that wet. A walker's path continued up the south ridge of Gulvain on an unrelenting ascent for around 700 metres to the 855 metre knoll. This was followed by a very short descent crossing a patch of snow before a further 60 metres of climbing to the South Top of Gulvain. I had expected that the next section of the walk would require crampons but fortunately there were only a few small patches of snow which we could cross with care without their use. The route was narrow compared to the ascent of the South Top but with no real problems. The cloud was variable, sometimes just above the mountain tops and at other times engulfing the tops. The bealach between the two tops was reached after a descent of around 60 metres which meant a re-ascent of almost 90 metres to reach the true summit of Gulvain. Views weren't that great from the summit but we had some views of Meall a'Phubuill, Meall Onfhaidh, Aodann Chleireig, Braigh nan Uamhachan, Streap and of Sgurr Thuilm, which we climbed the previous day, as we climbed and descended from the South Top. The return was by the ascent route. On previous occasions I have by-passed the South Top on my return but on this occasion this wasn't possible due to a build up of snow on its east side. On the descent of the South Top rays of sunlight could be seen above Loch Shiel. We were back to our vehicles before dusk and then the long road home after a successful weekend on the west coast, particularly for the Munro Baggers.
Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm16 February 2008
We were staying the weekend at Chase the Wild Goose Hostel at Banavie, Fort William, which was a convenient location to access these two Munros. In the morning it was only a 15 mile drive west along the A830 to Glenfinnan. There is a large parking area on the north side of the main road just before the Glenfinnan Viaduct. We walked north, below the Viaduct and up the tarred road towards Glenfinnan Lodge. Just before the Lodge we took the rough vehicle track passed Corryhully Bothy and over the Allt a'Choire Charnaig. Around 250 metres beyond this stream we left the vehicle track and followed the stalker's path that climbed towards the south-east ridge of Sgurr nan Coireachan. It was a rather cloudy morning with the cloud base just below the mountain tops so the views weren't as clear as they had been on my previous couple of days on the hills. The group, although fairly large, were mainly experienced walkers and kept together well which made things a bit easier for me. We climbed Sgurr a'Choire Riabhaich before a slight descent and onto the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan. There were no views here but it was time for lunch. I had a quick look at the route off Sgurr nan Coireachan and was pleased to see patches of hard packed snow as I had insisted that everyone carry their axe and crampons despite the poor snow cover. Once lunch was over and crampons fitted we descended from Sgurr nan Coireachan down the ridge which had several snow patches and I think everyone was pleased that they had carried their axe and crampons. The route between Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm, although mainly in cloud, was relatively easy to follow due to a line of metal fence posts. The route went over Meall an Tarmachain and Beinn Gharbh and onto the south ridge of Sgurr Thuilm. The fence posts don't go all the way to the summit of Sgurr Thuilm so when we reached the south ridge we turned left and headed to the summit cairn of Sgurr Thuilm. It was cold and windy here so we didn't linger and headed down the south ridge onto Druim Coire a'Bheithe and out of the cloud. A walker's path led to the vehicle track which was followed to the point where we had left it earlier that day. It was then the case of returning to the start down the tarred road in the semi-dark and the end of a longish day. For several of the group this was their first ascent of these Munros.
Meall Blair15 February 2008
Meall Blair is located between Loch Quoich in the north and Loch Arkaig to the south. The shorter approach to this Graham was from the south, so as I was due in Fort William later that day, I decided on that approach. On the north side of Loch Arkaig is a narrow single track road, which has recently had a section re-surfaced, but it is still a twisting undulating road that cannot be approached at speed unless you wish to damage the underside of your car. Access to Loch Arkaig is from Gairlochy on the Caledonian Canal, a few miles west of the A82 at the Commando Memorial. The Glen was engulfed in cloud and the temperature was around freezing as I negotiated this road. Around 500 metres west of the white house at Caonich I found a parking area at the edge of a passing place and set off uphill following an All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) track. I was fortunate that this normally wet and boggy track was relatively firm due to overnight frost, however visibility was poor. The ATV track had been improved in places and height was gained relatively quickly. After around 200 metres of height gain I cleared the cloud and had views of an unnamed hill to the west and looking back I could see Gulvain, Streap and the Corryhully Horseshoe, which was the next day’s target. I had read a guide book that said Meall Blair was an un-interesting hill but I didn’t consider that to be the case but maybe that was because I was in the sun and had some grand views. Loch Blair came into view and an ATV track headed round its south-west edge. However Meall Blair was to the north-east and I could see that another ATV track headed up onto its south-west ridge. I followed this track which was still firm from the frost and it took me easily up onto the ridge. Here I now had views of Sgurr Mhurlagain, Sgurr Mhor and Gulvain. I eventually left the track and headed towards the summit, crossing a couple of false summits and disturbing a couple of deer feeding in a hollow. I reached the summit trig point of Meall Blair where in addition to the hills already mentioned I could see Sgurr Mhaoraich, Gleouraich, Spidean Mialach, Loch Quoich, the South Cluanie Ridge, Ben Tee, Sron a'Choire Ghairbh, Meall na Teanga, Grey Corries, Aonach Mor, Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis. There was a cool breeze at the summit so I sought shelter for a bite to eat and heard several shots down in Glen Kingie. Stalking of the hinds was obviously taking place, it being the final day of the season. My return was by the upward route although I did take a more direct line and lower down disturbed some hinds which wouldn’t have seen me earlier due to the low cloud. There was also some lovely reflections of the hills in Loch Arkaig.
Meall na h-Eilde and Geal Charn12 January 2008
It was a cold and frosty morning when I left Inverness and headed south on the A82 along the west shore of Loch Ness. The forecast was for fine weather so I was looking forward to the day's walking on some snow clad Corbetts. Further south as the sun rose the mountain peaks to the west of Loch Lochy were lit up by the sun shinning on the snow. However not long afterwards I came into mist in Glen Albyn. I met up with my walking partner for the day in Spean Bridge before heading to the start of the walk which was the car park beside the Eas Chia-aig Waterfall on the B8006 road than runs north from Gairlochy towards Glen Dessarry. The car park is located at the end of what is called the Mile Dorcha, the Dark Mile. We set off along the upgraded path that headed fairly steeply northwards up the east side of the Abhainn Chia-aig. We soon joined a vehicle track and continued along Gleann Cia-aig through the forest and out of the low cloud. Walking here was relatively easy but after a couple of kilometres the condition of the path deteriorated and progress was slow as there was lots of ice on the path. After around 4.5 kilometres we exited from the forest with its new fencing and stile making crossing the deer fence easy. Further on a small wooden bridge, which was covered in frost, was used to cross the Abhainn Chia-aig. Thereafter we left the path and commenced the climb towards the snowline and the Bealach an Easain, between Meall an Tagraidh and Meall na h-Eilde. Several deer were feeding on the lower reaches of Meall an Tagraidh. It was surprisingly warm on this ascent with views east to Sron a'Choire Ghairbh and Meall na Teanga and back to Beinn Bhan. Before reaching the Bealach an Easain we cut across and commenced the ascent of Meall na h-Eilde trying to locate the most suitable ascent route through the snow. The early sunshine was now rather hazy as high cloud approached from the south but it gave the sky an orange glow. On arriving at the summit of Meall na h-Eilde we had tremendous views. Ben Nevis, The Aonachs, Grey Corries, Mamores, Creag Meagaidh, Loch Ness, Ben Wyvis, Glen Garry, Kintail, Loch Quoich and Glen Dessarry mountains in addition to the ones already mentioned were easily recognised. A line of fence posts led towards the Bealach Choire a'Ghuirein and on towards the summit of Meall Coire nan Saobhaidh. En-route we stopped for a late lunch while taking in the views to the east and south. After lunch it was a short climb to the summit cairn of Meall Coire nan Saobhaidh with finer views of the Kintail and Glen Dessarry mountains and also of Loch Quoich. We descended the south-west ridge of Meall Coire nan Saobhaidh towards the Beallach Carn na h-Urchaire still following the fence posts. Approaching the bealach the snow was almost knee deep in places and it was slow going. There was no sign of the small lochan which was obviously buried under the snow. The next section of the walk was probably the hardest section of the day as we climbed steeply up the north-west ridge of Geal Charn through knee deep snow. The gradient later eased and we arrived at the summit trig point as dusk was approaching. We stopped here for a few minutes taking more photos of Loch Quoich, the mountains to the west and of Glen Dessarry with its cloud inversion. The descent was down the south-east ridge of Geal Charn and I was hoping to make the path before it got dark but the going was a bit tough in the deep soft snow. However we reached the path on the east side of the Allt Dubh where we took a short break to get the head torches organised and a quick bite to eat. The path down the Allt Dubh was in poor condition and icy in places so we soon had to use the head torches to avoid falling on the ice. It took a long time to descend the four kilometres to the road alongside Loch Arkaig which was complicated by the fact that we lost the path in the dark and mist at the junction of some deer fences. It wasn't a major problem as we weren't far from the road and just needed to continue downhill. The only obstacles were the long boggy vegetation which fortunately was frozen and a deer fence topped with barbed wire.
The minor road was reached just west of Achnasaul and was followed
by a 2.5 kilometres walk along the icy road to the car park at
the Eas Chia-aig Waterfall and the end of an interesting and exciting winter
walk.
Ben Tee2 November 2007
The start of this walk was the road to Kilfinnan Farm accessed from the A82 Spean Bridge to Invergarry Road just north of Laggan Swing Bridge. North of the farm at a cattle grid opposite the forest I found an off road parking space. I climbed the steep hillside through bracken keeping to the south of the small forest plantation which was shrouded in cloud. Beyond the forest a few knolls were crossed and a couple of fences. The deer fence had a style but the wooden gate was in poor condition and had collapsed. Beyond the deer fence the ground was wet and boggy with only a gentle rise for around 1.5 kilometres. Fortunately the earlier low cloud lifted substantially although the showers continued. The walking became slightly easier as the ground became a bit steeper as I climbed Ben Tee’s east ridge. Higher up I entered the cloud again and the wind was now strong. The gradient increased but here there was a walker’s path to follow. The summit cairn was reached with a bit of difficulty due to the strong wind. Just prior to that a lone ptarmigan, in its partial winter coat of white, was darting about amongst the rocks. The return was by the ascent route assisted by a strong tail wind although the later section of the walk was once again affected by low cloud. There was actually an old stalker’s path, now mainly used by sheep that ran from near the Kilfinnan Burn up through slopes of grass and bracken and towards the top end of the forest. Using this path would be more suitable than wading through the bracken mentioned earlier.
Beinn Loinne30 October 2007
This Corbett summit is not actually named on the map but uses the name Beinn Loinne from a hill two kilometres to the east and 14 metres lower. The name Druim nan Cnamh has also been used but refers to its east ridge. Whatever name you wish to use it is located midway along the south shore of Loch Cluanie in Kintail on the opposite side of the Loch from the main A87 which runs through the glen. On my previous visit to this hill I climbed it from the east so on this occasion I settled for a westerly approach. Just east of the Cluanie Inn the old road to Tomdoun left the A87 where there is some limited parking. I followed this tarred road passed fixed notices about a deer cull in progress but the signs weren’t specific and are obviously there throughout the stalking season which lasts from July till February. However another sign asked walkers to keep to paths and ridges and out of the corries. After around an hour or so of walking in wind and rain I reached what appeared to be the highest point of the road and this was where I planned to leave it. I was a bit reluctant to do so as the terrain was wet and boggy with lots of water but I had no option so I set off across the moorland trying to avoid the water and bog. This stretch of boggy moorland lasted for around two kilometres until the gradient increased and the underfoot conditions improved slightly. At this point I spotted a stag and around four hinds running off northwards. The wind was now very strong so I tried to find the lee side of the hill for a bit of shelter but was unsuccessful. Several times I had to correct my balance as the wind caught me. It was a bit of a battle with the wind to reach the trig point marking the summit of the west top of Beinn Loinne. There were no views and it was too windy to hang around so I descended as quickly as possible using the route of ascent back to the start. The streams were now in spate with lots of water rushing off the hillsides.
Corryhully Horseshoe20 August 2007
A few days before this walk I made enquiries with Glenfinnan Estate to clarify access as it was the main stag stalking season and I was given clearance and they wished me well on my walk. I set off from the car park just off the A830 Fort William to Mallaig road at the start of the private road up Glen Finnan. I cycled up the glen passing under the Glen Finnan Viaduct, used in the Harry Potter movie. For some reason I found the short 20 minutes cycle quite hard going despite the road being tarred. On reaching the Corryhully Bothy I left my cycle there and continued up the now rough track to the signpost that marked the start of the stalker's path leading to Sgurr nan Coireachan. Although the start of the path was also marked by a cairn it was good of the Estate to provide some signage. The earlier cloud covering the mountain tops had stared to clear. The path led to the south ridge of Sgurr nan Coireachan where I had views back to the viaduct. A steep and in places rocky ascent took me to the Corbett Top, Sgurr a'Choire Riabhaich. The path thereafter wound it's way round some rocks before the final ascent of Sgurr nan Coireachan where I disturbed a mountain hare. From the summit I had views of the Rois-Bheinn Corbetts, the Small Isles and Loch Morar. It was a bit chilly on the summit so I set off down Sgurr nan Coireachan's east ridge which was a bit rocky in places and continued east over the Corbett Tops, Meall an Tarmachain and Beinn Gharbh on a fairly undulating ridge. On the upside were the views in all directions so I had to stop several times to take a few more photographs. On the ascent of Sgurr Thuilm a hind and its young had obviously spotted me and ran off. The summit of Sgurr Thuilm was bathed in sunshine and although there was a bit of a cool breeze I found an ideal location for my lunch, sitting looking down Loch Morar to the Island of Rum. After lunch I descended the Druim Coire a'Bheithe ridge. Lower down the path was rather wet and boggy before it reached the vehicle track to Corryhully Bothy. There was another sign indicating the route to Sgurr Thuilm at the point where I joined the track. Once back at the bothy it was a fifteen minutes cycle down Glen Finnan and the return to my car.
Sgurr na Ciche19 August 2007
Frances contacted me a few weeks ago as she was in the final stages of completing the Munros and was looking for some help. She only had five left to climb, one of them being Sgurr na Ciche. It was August and the start of the main stag stalking season which ends on 20 October so it was decided that we would tackle this Munro on a Sunday as stalking isn’t normally permitted that day. A rest day for the stags. We also planned to stay at the Independent Hostel at Station Lodge, Tulloch which was conveniently situated for access to the remote Glen Dessarry. In fact another Hostel resident was also headed for the Munros in Glen Dessarry that Sunday morning. It was a cloudy morning as we drove west along the northern shores of Loch Arkaig. The road is probably one of the worst maintained roads in the Highlands of Scotland although at the time of this visit there were some repairs being carried out. The road is a narrow single track road, with sharp undulations, twists and turns for around 18 miles or so. The road suddenly ends at a gate where there is a turning area and very limited parking. At the gate was a bucket containing some disinfectant with a request to dip our boots due to the Foot and Mouth outbreak in the south-east of England. Once we had duly complied we walked along the private vehicle track passed the new Glendessarry Lodge, which is a bit of an eyesore having been built higher up on the hill than the old lodge that was burnt down. Beyond Glendessarry Lodge we passed close to some Highland cattle and saw deer down at the side of the River Dessarry. On reaching Upper Glendessarry, which appeared vacant, we followed the marked path behind the house and along the north side of the forest. The path was wet and muddy and in particular the area around the watershed. This was the point where we left the Right of Way to Inverie and headed uphill sometimes on a walker’s path and at other times on an All Terrain Vehicle Track, which in places had been gouged out of the hill. Eventually we were above Coire na Ciche and here we had views out to the Islands of Eigg and Rum as well as Loch Nevis and towards the hamlet of Inverie. A short walk took us to below a gully which was full of loose rocks. We ascended the gully looking for the best route and on occasions had to cross and re-cross the stream or even walk up it for short stretches until we reached the bealach between Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor, known as Fedan na Ciche. From the bealach we commenced the climb to the summit of Sgurr na Ciche on an eroded path and across some boulders. During the ascent a rescue helicopter passed overhead. The path led to the ridge east of the summit cairn and here we saw the rescue helicopter operating high up on the south side of Ben Aden. We continued to the summit of Sgurr na Ciche with views across to Eigg, Rum and the Knoydat Munros. There was some cloud floating about and the summit of Beinn Sgritheall was cloud covered. We sat and had another lunch break looking out over the islands and mountains with the rescue helicopter operating in the glen between us and Ben Aden. We eventually left the summit and commenced the descent to Fedan na Ciche. En-route we met several walkers who having climbed Sgurr nan Coireachan and Garbh Chioch Mhor were en-route to their third Munro of the day. Included in the group was our fellow hosteller. The descent from Fedan na Ciche was by the ascent route back along Glen Dessarry and the long walk out but it was uneventful. Frances was glad that it was over as she had been suffering from the cold and laryngitis.
The Saddle and Sgurr na Sgine16 May 2007
The weather wasn’t too promising but not as bad as the forecast a few days earlier, especially in relation to the wind strength, had predicted so we set off from the A87 Glen Shiel Road, just east of the Achnagart Quarry where there is a small lay-by on the north side of the road. A short walk east along the A87 took us to a path that headed south to an old military road. We followed this path which then headed to the bealach between Biod an Fhithich and Meallan Odhar. It was rather cold at the bealach, where we met another group of walkers. We continued along a path below Meallan Odhar and to the foot of the Forcan Ridge. It had started to snow as we approached the ridge which would have made it rather awkward to climb so the decision was to by-pass it. This was the same decision taken by the other group of walkers. We followed the old wall towards the Bealach Coire Mhalagain where a weasel was seen running amongst the boulders. Some deer were also spotted just below the bealach. From the here we headed to the summit of The Saddle where there is a trig point at the height of 1010 metres. However Sue was of the opinion that the true summit was some 100 metres to the east so we walked, well scrambled in sections across to this cairn. I’m not sure if it made much difference as the map showed both the cairn and trig point as 1010 metres. It was a bit cloudy on the summit with some light snow falling so we descended back to the Bealach Coire Mhalagain where we took a break. Afterwards we climbed to the North West Top of Sgurr na Sgine and out to its summit where it was rather cloudy. We returned along the ridge and climbed Faochag before descending its north-east ridge by a rough path. On the descent we saw some ptarmigan and found a wheatear’s nest containing three eggs. The nest was virtually under a section of path so it was not in the best of locations. The lower section of the ridge had some rocky and wet sections to descend before the crossing of the Allt Mhalagain by a foot bridge. The final section of the walk was across some bog passing a bit a of rubbish dump where we saw three voles. Despite the disappointment of not getting up the Forcan Ridge, in two days, Sue had added nine Munros to her tally.
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